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Spring is the time when gardens turn back to life. Unfortunately, common garden pests also become active again only to start feeding on plants. The problem with many pests is that they are present all year. In the winter, many of them sleep cozily, waiting for the cool rains and sun to wake them up. Knowing which ones you are dealing with is key for how they can be controlled. This article describes the 12 most encountered garden pests and how to get rid of them. 

1) Aphids
With spring and summer humidity come aphids which are the most common plant pest that can affect almost anything in a garden. Tiny pear-shaped creatures pierce plant tissues and suck sap, causing the forming of puckered leaves, stunted growth and possible plant death. In addition, sticky substances secreted by aphids promotes sooty mold and attracts ants.

How to Get Rid of Aphids
A sharp spray of water can blast them off the plant, the of use sticky-paper bug traps also works, including the removal of affected plant parts. Another safe, natural pest control method is the spraying of aphids with insecticidal soap or the release of lady bugs which feed on aphids.

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2) Cutworms
A fat, one-inch-long moth larvae that hides beneath leaves or within the top layer of soil during the day and feed on plants at night is the cutworm. They typically attack plant stems and leaves leaving large and irregular holes. The gray, green or cream coloured cutworms are often found under leaf debris or in the soil. When disturbed they often curl into a “C” shape.

How to Get Rid of Cutworms
Seedlings can be protected with collars made from plastic drinking cups or cardboard rolls from toilet paper. Cultivating soil in the fall kills overwintering eggs. If available, a soil-dwelling bacterium spray known as BT or Bacillus thuringiensis can be applied. The spray naturally produces a toxin that is fatal to certain herbivorous insects.

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3) Japanese Beetles
Adult 1/2-inch insects are metallic blue-green and bronze in colour and they feed on the roots of grass and other plants. Larvae are fat, white grubs with brown heads. Japanese beetles skeletonize leaves and chew flowers.

How to Get Rid of Japanese Beetles
In the morning, when the beetles are less active, they can be shaken from plants into a bucket filled with soapy water. Insecticidal soap spray can also be applied to kill them.

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4) Scales
Adult female scale insects look like bumps on plant stems, leaves or fruit and cause damage to various plants. Foliage is weakened and mostly turns yellow followed by drop off. In addition, the insects excrete honeydew which can attract other insects and foster disease.

How to Get Rid of Scales
Small infestations can be removed and destroyed from plants by the use a soft brush and soapy water to scrub scales from twigs. Infested plant parts should be removed. Dormant oil spray applications may be required for larger infestations.

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5) Slugs
Slugs are either brown or gray slimy and soft-bodied. They feed mostly at night and hide out in shady spots during the day. They’ll eat just about any garden plant, leaving unsightly holes in the foliage. Slugs are common in moist, humid climates and they’re more prevalent if the weather has been rainy.

How to Get Rid of Slugs
A number of methods are effective for getting rid of snails and slugs. Empty tuna fish cans filled with beer and placed in the garden will attract slugs to fall in and drown. Sprinkling sharp sand, wood ashes, crushed seashells or diatomaceous earth around the stems of plants will discourage and eventually destroy slugs.

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6) Spider Mites
Spider mites are tiny spider related sap sucking pests that can show up at any time of year on outdoor as well as indoor plants. Almost invisible, the green, yellow or red insects favour plants in warm and dry areas. Yellow dots on leaves and fine webbing are indicators of spider mites presence. They often found on the underside of leaves and in the center of the plants.

How to Get Rid of Spider Mites
A number of easy to make home remedies are available. Plants can just be power-washed with water to rid plants of the pest, or a lemon scented mild dish soap put into a sprayer and applied over several days proves quite effective. Another effective solution is the application of an insecticidal spray. A more organic approach is to release predatory insects that favour spider mites, such as lady bugs that are readily available in most garden centers.

---

7) Squash Bugs
Squash bugs are flat-backed dark gray or brown insects looking as if they’re wearing armor, and resemble stink bugs. They are most commonly found on squash plants and on pumpkins, but they also attack zucchini and other gourd plants. Getting rid of squash bugs fast is vital to prevent them from destroying entire crops.

How to Get Rid of Squash Bugs
Natural squash bug control methods include hand picking, diatomaceous earth, insecticidal soap and the application of neem oil sprays. In addition to natural insecticides, it’s crucial to avoid attracting the plant-destroying bugs by using using row covers, companion planting, and not mulching around squash or pumpkins plants.

---

8) Ants
The biodiversity of a healthy garden is mostly not concerned about the presence of ants. Sap sucking insects like aphids however have mutualistic associations with ants. Ants collect the sweet liquid known as honeydew, which is excreted by aphids and some other sap-feeding insects. Increased numbers of aphids may result in more damage to plants. Ants themselves do little direct damage to plants, although they can disturb soil around plant roots during their nest building activities. 

How to get Rid of Ants
Several jugs of boiling water poured into ant nests is one method. Changing the soil condition from sandy to moist will make ants move in a hurry. Coffee grounds, baking soda, chili powder, cinnamon, peppermint or black pepper – all deter ants. Diatomaceous Earth (die·a·toe·may·shus, or just ‘DE’ for short) is a naturally occurring substance used for a range of home care and pest control purposes and is extremely effective for controlling ant infestations.

---

9) Earwigs
Also known as ‘pincher bugs’ for their two long pincers protruding at the end of their body. Earwigs are drawn to damp and wet, dark places and are often found in corn ears – and not in people’s ears as old folks tales suggest. Earwigs are long, black or brown coloured. They are active in late spring and early summer when they chew holes into leaves of many plants causing them to brown and shrivel.

How to Get Rid of Earwigs Earwigs
Diatomaceous earth and insecticidal soaps are effective controls. Traps made from vegetable-oil filled tin cans or rolled up newspapers placed at ground level work also as long as they are disposed of later.

---

10) Tomato Hornworm
The bright-green, heavily striped caterpillars look fearsome with their horn-like tails. They eat the foliage of tomato plants primarily, but also peppers, potatoes and eggplants.

How to Get Rid of Tomato Hornworms
Although camouflaged, these caterpillars are large and easy to spot. Handpicking and dropping into soapy water is a good solution. Bt spray (Bacillus thuringiensis), a soil-dwelling bacterium which acts as an insecticide when ingested, is also highly effective. The release of lady bugs in a garden can also dramatically reduce the presence of hornworms as they prey on the eggs of caterpillars.

---

11) Whiteflies
A common plant pest that affects outdoor and indoor plants and plants grown in greenhouses, whiteflies are tiny sucking insects that weaken and stunt plant growth and also leave behind a sticky honeydew which leads to fungal disease.

How to Get Rid of Whiteflies
Infected plants can be sprayed with water from a garden hose to dislodge adult and larval whiteflies. After that, a spray application of organic neem oil or insecticidal soap spray made with a few drops of castile soap mixed into a quart of water works extremely well. The spray needs to target tops and undersides of plant leaves, as well plant stems and the top of the soil line. Best times for treatments are early mornings and evenings. Whiteflies should be eradicated after 7 to 10 days of treatment reapplication.

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12) Mealybugs
Mealybugs are small, cottony insects that suck sap from plants, causing distorted, limited growth and leaf loss. They secrete honeydew as they eat, which can attract ants and lead to the growth of sooty mold.

How to get Rid of Mealybugs
If an infestation is heavy, spraying with insecticidal soap, neem oil, or an insecticide with pyrethrin can help control mealybugs. Label directions must be carefully followed to not harm other plants and beneficial insects.

Hi, I am Matt – the owner of Chasing Sprouts website. The blog, resources and plant database segments feature a wealth of information to master all sorts of gardening projects. Feel free to share my articles with your world. Bookmark Chasing Sprouts to stay in the loop!

❀❀❀

NEED HELP
WITH YOUR PLANTING PROJECT ?
.

.

---

Spring is the time when gardens turn back to life. Unfortunately, common garden pests also become active again only to start feeding on plants. The problem with many pests is that they are present all year. In the winter, many of them sleep cozily, waiting for the cool rains and sun to wake them up. Knowing which ones you are dealing with is key for how they can be controlled. This article describes the 12 most encountered garden pests and how to get rid of them. 

1) Aphids
With spring and summer humidity come aphids which are the most common plant pest that can affect almost anything in a garden. Tiny pear-shaped creatures pierce plant tissues and suck sap, causing the forming of puckered leaves, stunted growth and possible plant death. In addition, sticky substances secreted by aphids promotes sooty mold and attracts ants.

How to Get Rid of Aphids
Green Thumb Method: The release of lady bugs which feed on aphids, a sharp spray of water can blast them off the plant, the of use sticky-paper bug traps also works, including the removal of affected plant parts. Chemical Method: The spraying of aphids with insecticidal soap.

---

2) Cutworms
A fat, one-inch-long moth larvae that hides beneath leaves or within the top layer of soil during the day and feed on plants at night is the cutworm. They typically attack plant stems and leaves leaving large and irregular holes. The gray, green or cream coloured cutworms are often found under leaf debris or in the soil. When disturbed they often curl into a “C” shape.

How to Get Rid of Cutworms
Seedlings can be protected with collars made from plastic drinking cups or cardboard rolls from toilet paper. Cultivating soil in the fall kills overwintering eggs. If available, a soil-dwelling bacterium spray known as BT or Bacillus thuringiensis can be applied. The spray naturally produces a toxin that is fatal to certain herbivorous insects.

---

3) Japanese Beetles
Adult 1/2-inch insects are metallic blue-green and bronze in colour and they feed on the roots of grass and other plants. Larvae are fat, white grubs with brown heads. Japanese beetles skeletonize leaves and chew flowers.

How to Get Rid of Japanese Beetles
In the morning, when the beetles are less active, they can be shaken from plants into a bucket filled with soapy water. Insecticidal soap spray can also be applied to kill them.

---

4) Scales
Adult female scale insects look like bumps on plant stems, leaves or fruit and cause damage to various plants. Foliage is weakened and mostly turns yellow followed by drop off. In addition, the insects excrete honeydew which can attract other insects and foster disease.

How to Get Rid of Scales
Small infestations can be removed and destroyed from plants by the use a soft brush and soapy water to scrub scales from twigs. Infested plant parts should be removed. Dormant oil spray applications may be required for larger infestations.

---

5) Slugs
Slugs are either brown or gray slimy and soft-bodied. They feed mostly at night and hide out in shady spots during the day. They’ll eat just about any garden plant, leaving unsightly holes in the foliage. Slugs are common in moist, humid climates and they’re more prevalent if the weather has been rainy.

How to Get Rid of Slugs
A number of methods are effective for getting rid of snails and slugs. Empty tuna fish cans filled with beer and placed in the garden will attract slugs to fall in and drown. Sprinkling sharp sand, wood ashes, crushed seashells or diatomaceous earth around the stems of plants will discourage and eventually destroy slugs.

---

6) Spider Mites
Spider mites are tiny spider related sap sucking pests that can show up at any time of year on outdoor as well as indoor plants. Almost invisible, the green, yellow or red insects favour plants in warm and dry areas. Yellow dots on leaves and fine webbing are indicators of spider mites presence. They often found on the underside of leaves and in the center of the plants.

How to Get Rid of Spider Mites
A number of easy to make home remedies are available. Plants can just be power-washed with water to rid plants of the pest, or a lemon scented mild dish soap put into a sprayer and applied over several days proves quite effective. Another effective solution is the application of an insecticidal spray. A more organic approach is to release predatory insects that favour spider mites, such as lady bugs that are readily available in most garden centers.

---

7) Squash Bugs
Squash bugs are flat-backed dark gray or brown insects looking as if they’re wearing armor, and resemble stink bugs. They are most commonly found on squash plants and on pumpkins, but they also attack zucchini and other gourd plants. Getting rid of squash bugs fast is vital to prevent them from destroying entire crops.

How to Get Rid of Squash Bugs
Natural squash bug control methods include hand picking, diatomaceous earth, insecticidal soap and the application of neem oil sprays. In addition to natural insecticides, it’s crucial to avoid attracting the plant-destroying bugs by using using row covers, companion planting, and not mulching around squash or pumpkins plants.

---

8) Ants
The biodiversity of a healthy garden is mostly not concerned about the presence of ants. Sap sucking insects like aphids however have mutualistic associations with ants. Ants collect the sweet liquid known as honeydew, which is excreted by aphids and some other sap-feeding insects. Increased numbers of aphids may result in more damage to plants. Ants themselves do little direct damage to plants, although they can disturb soil around plant roots during their nest building activities. 

How to get Rid of Ants
Several jugs of boiling water poured into ant nests is one method. Changing the soil condition from sandy to moist will make ants move in a hurry. Coffee grounds, baking soda, chili powder, cinnamon, peppermint or black pepper – all deter ants. Diatomaceous Earth (die·a·toe·may·shus, or just ‘DE’ for short) is a naturally occurring substance used for a range of home care and pest control purposes and is extremely effective for controlling ant infestations.

---

9) Earwigs
Also known as ‘pincher bugs’ for their two long pincers protruding at the end of their body. Earwigs are drawn to damp and wet, dark places and are often found in corn ears – and not in people’s ears as old folks tales suggest. Earwigs are long, black or brown coloured. They are active in late spring and early summer when they chew holes into leaves of many plants causing them to brown and shrivel.

How to Get Rid of Earwigs Earwigs
Diatomaceous earth and insecticidal soaps are effective controls. Traps made from vegetable-oil filled tin cans or rolled up newspapers placed at ground level work also as long as they are disposed of later.

---

10) Tomato Hornworm
The bright-green, heavily striped caterpillars look fearsome with their horn-like tails. They eat the foliage of tomato plants primarily, but also peppers, potatoes and eggplants.

How to Get Rid of Tomato Hornworms
Although camouflaged, these caterpillars are large and easy to spot. Handpicking and dropping into soapy water is a good solution. Bt spray (Bacillus thuringiensis), a soil-dwelling bacterium which acts as an insecticide when ingested, is also highly effective. The release of lady bugs in a garden can also dramatically reduce the presence of hornworms as they prey on the eggs of caterpillars.

---

11) Whiteflies
A common plant pest that affects outdoor and indoor plants and plants grown in greenhouses, whiteflies are tiny sucking insects that weaken and stunt plant growth and also leave behind a sticky honeydew which leads to fungal disease.

How to Get Rid of Whiteflies
Infected plants can be sprayed with water from a garden hose to dislodge adult and larval whiteflies. After that, a spray application of organic neem oil or insecticidal soap spray made with a few drops of castile soap mixed into a quart of water works extremely well. The spray needs to target tops and undersides of plant leaves, as well plant stems and the top of the soil line. Best times for treatments are early mornings and evenings. Whiteflies should be eradicated after 7 to 10 days of treatment reapplication.

---

12) Mealybugs
Mealybugs are small, cottony insects that suck sap from plants, causing distorted, limited growth and leaf loss. They secrete honeydew as they eat, which can attract ants and lead to the growth of sooty mold.

How to get Rid of Mealybugs
If an infestation is heavy, spraying with insecticidal soap, neem oil, or an insecticide with pyrethrin can help control mealybugs. Label directions must be carefully followed to not harm other plants and beneficial insects.

Hi, I am Matt – the owner of Chasing Sprouts website. The blog, resources and plant database segments feature a wealth of information to master all sorts of gardening projects. Feel free to share my articles with your world. Bookmark Chasing Sprouts to stay in the loop!

❀❀❀

NEED HELP
WITH YOUR PLANTING PROJECT ?
.

.

---

Two of the most often asked questions about hydrangeas are when and how these magnificent plants should be pruned. It is important to identify the types of a hydrangea before pruning because some form their flower buds on old wood, meaning next summer’s buds are already present on the branches in fall and winter while others form their flower buds on new wood, once they begin to grow in spring. One common misconception about hydrangeas is that one can prune them throughout the season to keep them shorter. The act of pruning in general, stimulates new growth and shortening hydrangeas in height isn’t effective because they will grow right back to their original size or larger.

Pruning Hydrangeas That Bloom On Old Wood
Most hydrangeas that bloom on old wood should be pruned immediately after they are done flowering. But some varieties finish flowering so late in the season that pruning them after they bloom doesn’t leave enough time for them to regrow and form flower buds for next year. That’s why those varieties should not be pruned except to remove any completely dead branches in the spring once the plant starts to leaf out. All oakleaf hydrangeas, bigleaf and mountain hydrangeas that are not rebloomers and bloom exclusively on old wood.

Pruning Hydrangeas That Bloom On New Wood
Hydrangeas that bloom on new wood can be safely pruned in late fall once the plants have gone dormant or in early spring. Next year’s flower buds won’t be formed until late spring the same year they bloom. All smooth hydrangeas and all panicle hydrangeas bloom exclusively on new wood.

Pruning Reblooming Hydrangeas
Reblooming hydrangeas are a bit difficult in terms of the right pruning time as they produce flowers on both old and new wood. Reblooming cultivars should be pruned the same way as hydrangeas that bloom on old wood, such as removing dead branches in the spring once the plant starts to leaf out. Bigleaf and mountain hydrangeas are typically reblooming varieties.

Hydrangeas – How Much To Prune
It is safe to prune as much as one-third off on varieties that bloom on new wood. However, removing too much may i.e. weaken the framework of a standard tree-form hydrangea or remove too much foliage for an adequate amount of food to support the root system. The safest cut is one to make just above a set of large, healthy leaves. If a branch is broken or dead, it can be removed completely.

Hi, I am Matt – the owner of Chasing Sprouts website. The blog, resources and plant database segments feature a wealth of information to master all sorts of gardening projects. Feel free to share my articles with your world. Bookmark Chasing Sprouts to stay in the loop!

❀❀❀

NEED HELP
WITH YOUR PLANTING PROJECT ?
.

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---

Hydrangea trees are hydrangea shrub plants that have been grower cultivated into tree-forms, also known as standard hydrangeas. The most common type of cultivated tree-form hydrangea is the Panicle hydrangea with its cone-shaped clusters of white-cream-pink blossoms.

Examples of Hydrangea Trees

Limelight Hydrangea Tree (Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight’)
Quick Fire Hydrangea Tree (Hydrangea paniculata ‘Bulk’)
Berry White Hydrangea Tree (Hydrangea paniculata ‘Renba’)
Vanilla Strawberry Hydrangea Tree (Hydrangea paniculata ‘Renhy’)
Pee Gee Hydrangea Tree (Hydrangea paniculata ‘Grandiflora’)
Pinky Winky Hydrangea Tree (Hydrangea paniculata ‘DVPpinky’)

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Zeroscaping Madness

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Limelight Hydrangea Tree
The Limelight hydrangea tree is by far the most popular variety available. It has most commonly been grown in its natural shrub form, growing to a mature size of 6-8 feet tall and wide. A newer version, the ‘Limelight Prime’, is a smaller tree that grows to a maximum height and width of 6 to 8 feet.

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Pinky Winky Hydrangea Tree
The Pinky Winky hydrangea is another very popular cultivar. Similar size to Limelight, also reaching 6 to 8 feet tall at maturity, the flowers of this hydrangea tree open as a white colour with a blush hint, and then age to a bright pink.

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Vanilla Strawberry Hydrangea Tree
The Vanilla Strawberry hydrangea tree is a smaller plant, growing to 4 to 6 feet tall and wide. At first, the flower heads are creamy white but age to an attractive pale pink colour.

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Quick Fire Hydrangea Tree
Quick Fire is another popular hydrangea cultivar used for standard-form specimens. Like Limelight and Pinky Winky, this variety grows to 6 to 8 feet tall and wide. It is one of the earliest blooming tree-form hydrangea varieties.

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Phantom Hydrangea Tree
The Phantom hydrangea tree, a large variety that can reach 6-10 feet tall and wide features large flower heads, which can reach over a foot long on mature shrubs. The flowers start out white before aging to a pinkish-blush colour.

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Pee Gee Hydrangea Tree
The Pee Gee hydrangea tree was once the most popular variety of tree-form hydrangeas. Also known as Grandiflora hydrangea tree, the Pee Gee is a particularly large variety that develops multi-stemmed reaching a size of 10 to 20 feet tall and wide when mature.

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Little Lime Hydrangea Tree
The Little Lime hydrangea trees are dwarf forms of the popular ‘Limelight’ cultivar. These beautiful small trees reach to a height and witdth of about 4 to 5 feet. Like the Limelight variety, they have green flowers that age to an antique blush pink.

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Weed Barriers – Costly & Ineffective

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Bobo Hydrangea Tree
The Bobo hydrangea tree is also a smaller variety of hydrangea tree, measuring about 3 feet tall and wide when at maturity. Due to its small stature, this cultivar is often sold as a container plant perfect for doorway entries, decks and patios.

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Fire Light Hydrangea Tree
The Fire Light hydrangea tree is an interesting variety due to its vibrant colours. As the flowers bloom, they change from cream white to a bright pink. The tree itself grows 5 to 6 feet tall when mature.

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Strawberry Sundae Hydrangea Tree
The Strawberry Sundae hydrangea tree is another interesting hydrangea in that it changes the colour of the flowers as it blooms. When the flowers open up, they are a creamy white and then age to a deep pinkish-red, making for a breath-taking display in a landscape. This hydrangea tree grows 6 to 7 feet tall and wide.

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Little Quick Fire Hydrangea Tree
A compact version of ‘Quick Fire’, the Little Quick Fire hydrangea tree is the perfect choice for small yards or gardens. This hydrangea tree grows only 4 feet tall and wide and its flowers open up white with a pinkish blush before aging to bright pink.

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Wim’s Red Hydrangea Tree
A unique hydrangea tree with deep red/purple flowers, the Wim’s Red hydrangea tree’s flowers start out as a creamy white colour, but age to a rich pink and onto a glowing ruby red in the early fall. This hydrangea tree grows 5 to 6 feet tall and wide.

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Early Evolution Hydrangea Tree
The Early Evolution hydrangea tree is an early blooming standard tree with white flowers that age to a soft, elegant blush pink. It is a perfect choice for small gardens as grows 4 to 6 feet tall and wide and its showy blooms last all season.

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Magical Candle Hydrangea Tree
The Magical Candle hydrangea tree is another unique hydrangea tree and it gets its name from the beautiful candle-like flower panicles. Flowers start up creamy white before aging to a light pink hue. This hydrangea tree grows 4 to 6 feet tall and wide at maturity.

Commonly Asked Questions

What are the longest blooming hydrangea trees?
Pee Gee hydrangea, Fire Light hydrangea, and Magical Candle hydrangea.

What hydrangea tree has the deepest blooms?
Wim’s Red hydrangea, which has dark pink/red flowers that age to a ruby red colour.

What hydrangea trees are best suited for small yards?
Little Lime hydrangea, Bobo hydrangea, Little Quick Fire hydrangea, and Early Evolution hydrangea.

How can to increase the longevity of hydrangea trees?
To make hydrangea trees last longer, they should be planted in well-drained, moist soil. Pruning in the late winter can help promote new growth and flowering. Additionally, applying fertilizer every spring will keep your hydrangea trees healthy and blooming throughout the season.

Hi, I am Matt – the owner of Chasing Sprouts website. The blog, resources and plant database segments feature a wealth of information to master all sorts of gardening projects. Feel free to share my articles with your world. Bookmark Chasing Sprouts to stay in the loop!

❀❀❀

NEED HELP
WITH YOUR PLANTING PROJECT ?
.

.

---

Hydrangeas are some of the most popular garden plants in the world. With their huge beautiful blooms, it’s easy to see why. Six types of hydrangeas are common in North America. They are categorized and identified by flower shape, leaf size, colour, growth habit and overall growing size. 

The growing conditions for hydrangeas, whether they need sun or shade, when to prune them and how hardy they are largely depends on the type of the plant. This article shows how to identify hydrangeas and what the 6 most common types are.

One of the most important things to know about hydrangeas is when and how they bloom. The same is important for when to prune them. Old Wood – Blooming on old wood means that the flowers bloom on last year’s stems. New Wood – Blooming on new wood means that the flower buds form on the new stems that have just grown this year. Since they have a lot of new growth to put out first, they take longer to start blooming.

1 | Big Leaf Hydrangea – Hydrangea Macrophylla

Mophead Hydrangeas
Lacecap Hydrangeas
Mountain Hydrangeas

Big leaf hydrangeas are the 4 to 6 foot high and wide plants with large white, blue or pink flowers that are often used as hedges to line driveways and fences, or as foundation plants in the front of a house. They grow best in part shade in moist but well-drained soil, but will tolerate full sun if they are well watered.

Big leaf hydrangeas come in two types of flowers – Mopheads (Big Balls) and Lace Caps (Flat & Lacy). Big leaf hydrangeas have large, dark green, pointed leaves that tend to grow in clusters with two leaves on either side of very little branched stems. Many varieties of Hydrangea macrophylla have flowers that will change colour from blue to pink (and vice versa) depending on your soil pH. Acidic soil will produce blue blooms, while alkaline soil produces pink ones. The mophead variety has clusters of showy florets that form large round balls that can bloom from summer to fall. 

The lace cap variety has flatter, more delicate flower heads. The blooms are made up of buds in the center, surrounded by showy open wide florets that last about one month, usually fading faster than their mophead cousins.

Big Leaf Hydrangea Specs
Zones: 5 to 11 – Light: Part to full shade – Bloom Time: Summer to Fall – Height: 4′ to 6′ – Spread: 4′ to 6′ – Colour: White, pink, blue, purple, red – Blooms on: All varieties with the exception of newer generations bloom on old wood.

Common Varieties: Blushing Bride – mophead with white to pink flowers; Nikko Blue – mophead with bright blue flowers; Endless Summer – mophead with blue flowers in acidic soil or pink flowers in alkaline soil; Twist-n-Shout – the very first re-blooming lace cap with blue flowers in acidic soil or pink flowers in alkaline soil; Cherry Explosion – cherry red lace cap flowers with burgundy fall colour.

Mountain Hydrangeas (Hydrangea Serrata) are very similar to the lace cap varieties of big leaf hydrangeas except for their smaller their leaves. They bloom on old wood and due to their bud hardiness they are less likely to be affected by late frosts. 

The flowers can change colour from pink to blue and vice versa depending on soil acidity. Because of their compact nature, mountain hydrangeas are great for growing in containers.

Mountain Hydrangea Specs
Zones: 5 to 9 – Light: Partial shade – Bloom Time: Summer – Height: 2′ to 4′ – Spread: 2′ to 4′ – Colour: Pink, red, blue – Blooms on: All varieties with the exception of newer generations bloom on old wood.

Common Varieties: Tuff Stuff – re-blooming mountain Hydrangea with pink or blue flowers; Tuff Stuff Red – deep pink and green flowers or purple and blue flowers.

2 | Panicle Hydrangea – Hydrangea Paniculata

Panicle hydrangeas are some of the easiest and hardiest hydrangeas to grow. Besides their leaves that are smaller than most other types, they feature showy, cone shaped flowers which tend to start out as a white or greenish colour and turn to a shade of pink or red. 

Panicle hydrangeas can grow up to 12 feet high and wide are also available in a standard or tree form. Panicle hydrangeas once established, are very cold hardy and on the opposite also more drought-tolerant than other hydrangea types.

Panicle Hydrangea Specs
Zones: 3 to 8 – Light: Full sun to part shade – Bloom Time: Summer to Fall – Height: 8′ to 12′ – Spread: 8′ to 12′ – Colour: White, green, pink, red – Blooms on: New wood.

Common Varieties: Limelight – starts green and turns to creamy white and a pinkish tone towards the end of summer; Vanilla Strawberry – starts out white and then turns to a bright pink colour; First Editions Berry White – starts white then turns pink and then red. 

3 | Smooth Hydrangea – Hydrangea Arborescens

The smooth hydrangea is is one of the hardiest native species that grows wild across much of Eastern Canada and the United States. Many people refer to it as the Annabelle Hydrangea because it used to be the only garden variety. But due to its popularity, there are a number of other smooth hydrangeas available now that provide more selection in colour and size.

The blooms are similar in shape to the big leaf mopheads but are usually larger, and do not change colour with changes in soil pH. The smooth hydrangea is a loosely and widely branched deciduous shrub that typically grows to 3 to 6 feet high and wide. It can adapt to a variety of soil conditions, but is intolerant of drought.

Smooth Hydrangea Specs
Zones: 3 to 9 – Light: Part shade to sun – Bloom Time: Summer to Fall – Height: 3′ to 5′ – Spread: 3′ to 5′ – Colour: White, pink – Blooms on: New wood.

Common Varieties: Annabelle – the original hydrangea with huge white balls for flowers; Invincibelle Ruby – burgundy red flowers on a compact plant; Incrediball – huge white flowers on sturdy stems; Incrediball Blush – huge pale pink flowers on sturdy stems.

4 | Oakleaf Hydrangea – Hydrangea Quercifolia

Oakleaf Hydrangea is a native species that is found in woodlands throughout the Southeast. The oakleaf hydrangea is noted for producing pyramidal panicles of white flowers in summer on exfoliating branches clad with large, 3 to 7 lobed, oak-like, dark green leaves.

Its white or pink flowers are oblong rather than round balls and they turn to different shades of orange, red and yellow. This upright, broad-rounded, suckering, multi-stemmed, deciduous shrub typically grows 4 to 6 feet high and wide.

Oakleaf Hydrangea Specs
Zones: 5 to 9 – Light: Full sun to part shade – Bloom Time: Summer to Fall – Height: 5′ to 8′ – Spread: 5′ to 8′ – Colour: White, pink – Blooms on: Old wood.

Common Varieties: Gatsby Gal – 5′ shrub with greenish blooms that turn snow white; Ruby Slippers – white blooms that turn pink then red; Alice – native cultivar with foot-long flowers that start white and age to pink.

5 | Climbing Hydrangea – Hydrangea Petiolaris

The climbing hydrangea is a vine with beautiful, lacy white blooms. It is a vigorous, sprawling, deciduous, woody vine that clings and climbs by twining and aerial rootlets along the stems, typically maturing over time to 30 to 40 feet long.

Best grown in rich, fertile, moist but well-drained soils in part shade to full shade. Tolerates full sun only if grown with consistently moist soils. Slow to establish, but quite vigorous thereafter. Propagate by seeds or stem cuttings.

Climbing Hydrangea Specs
Zones: 4 to 9 – Light: Part to full shade – Bloom Time: Spring to Summer – Height: 30′ to 40′ – Spread: 6′ to 8′ – Colour: White – Blooms on: Old wood

Commonly Asked Questions

Which hydrangeas grow in full sun?
Panicle hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata) are amongst the most sun-tolerant hydrangea varieties and can thrive in full sun. They require a minimum of six hours of direct sunlight daily to produce abundant blooms. Smooth hydrangeas (Hydrangea arborescens) can thrive in full sun as well but they need adequate moisture and shade breaks during the midday sun. Oakleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea quercifolia) can grow well in the sun but they need afternoon shade in hotter and dryer climates.

Which hydrangeas grow in the shade?
Climbing Hydrangea (Hydrangea petiolaris), Big Leaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), Oakleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia), Smooth Hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens) and Mountain Hydrangea (Hydrangea serrata) will all grow in the shade, but most will bloom best in partial rather than full shade.

What types of hydrangeas bloom on new wood?
Panicle Hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata) and Smooth Hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens) are the two hydrangeas that bloom entirely on new wood. Some other re-blooming varieties, such as the ‘Endless Summer’ Big Leaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) and the ‘Tuff Stuff’ Mountain Hydrangea (Hydrangea serrata) cultivars bloom on both old and new wood.

What types of hydrangeas bloom on old wood?
Climbing Hydrangea (Hydrangea petiolaris), Oakleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia), Mountain Hydrangea (Hydrangea serrata) and Big Leaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) all bloom on old wood and should not be pruned in the fall or spring to prevent cutting off the buds. To be safe – “prune after bloom”.

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Home owners and horticulture professionals spend a lot of time and money using weed barriers in ornamental beds only to have weeds take over months or a few years later. One common method is to apply landscape fabric or black plastic around plants and place a layer of mulch on top to dress it up. The barrier on top of the soil is supposed to prevent weeds from emerging by means of blockings sunlight from reaching them. Available weed barriers are expensive and they are labeled as porous to allow air and water to move through them and reach ornamental plant roots.

What Makes Weed Barriers Ineffective ?
In theory, the use of these barriers sounds like a good concept that may work for a while. Over time however, soil and mulch particles fill up the porous spaces in the material and prevent air and water from reaching plant roots. As the fabric becomes clogged, adequate amounts of water and air are unable to reach the plant roots, leading to the plant’s decline.

Black plastic is impermeable therefore no oxygen exchange can occur to the soil. Lack of oxygen to the roots and soil microbes significantly reduces plant growth. Black plastic also prevents water penetration. When plant roots do not receive the needed water and air for healthy growth, they may respond by trying to send roots through fabric seams which breaks down the intended weed barrier. Other plants slowly decline due to water stress or lack of sufficient air movement into the soil.  

Woven weed barrier fabrics initially allow some minor oxygen and water exchange to the soil, but eventually become clogged and create the same issues as plastic. Weeds easily germinate on top of the fabric and root into or through it. Both plastic and woven plastic fabrics disrupt the life cycles of many pollinators and other soil invertebrates.

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Mulching For Soil Improvement

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Weed seeds also find their way into the mulch that is on top of the fabric from nearby landscapes which may lead to entire weed crops growing in the mulch on top of landscape fabric.

Aesthetically speaking, when the weed fabric is exposed, it looks just awful. Simply put, weed barriers are for those who hate earth worms, don’t plant flower bulbs and who don’t divide geraniums and irises. The best place to consider fabric in the landscape is under mulched paths or other areas without ornamental plantings. In order to have a healthy root environment for ornamental bed plants, it is best to keep weed barriers out of these areas.

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Zeroscaping or hardscaping is largely confused with xeriscaping which itself has nothing to do with replacing entire lots with rocks. The widespread practice of replacing plant cover with rocks to eliminate the need of maintenance, is complete non-sense and does absolutely nothing positive to the ecosystem. If no outdoor maintenance is sought, why choose a house with outdoor space instead of a condo or apartment ? 

The removal of plants in general reduces or eliminates pollination which is an important factor for food production. Bee populations are already on the decline not only by the impacts of herbicide or pesticide applications, but also because of habitat loss. Entire ecosystems are affected when plants are replaced by rock – no more insects, rodents or birds which are all important players in a healthy environment. 

All living space, inside or outside – sooner or later, requires attention. Areas filled with nothing but rock are filled up over time with landed seed pods, moss and other plant debris that gets blown in. 

While zeroscaping is a popular practise here and there, it is becoming increasingly illegal in many other places of the world for its destructive effects on the ecosystem. In addition, many European cities have found that too many people draw on the energy net with the increased use of air conditioners to get relief from the heat that the rockscapes emit everywhere.

Rocks are highly ineffective as a mulch. The purpose for mulch is to retain water, add add nutrients to the soil and to suppress weeds. Rocks conduct heat during daytime and emit heat during nighttime, thus inhibiting any form of natural cooling during seasons already hotter than normal due to climate change. Increased use of air conditioners leads to more air pollution from non-hydro power plants. 

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Mulching For Soil Improvement

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In little time, rock filled areas are overgrown with weeds that are hard or impossible to remove. During hot seasons, dried weed covered areas can turn into dangerous flammable surfaces which can ignite when ambers from nearby wildfires rain onto them. 

Pea Gravel Instead of Crush or Rocks – Rocky materials used for mulch should be smaller than a half-inch in diameter for the benefits of water conservation and weed suppression. Pea gravel has been shown to improve water infiltration into the soil, especially after heavy down pours. Larger stone sizes do not function well as mulches. Read Mulching For Soil Improvement.

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Beneficial native plants are vital components of healthy and resilient ecosystems. They increase biodiversity, provide habitat for wildlife, attract birds, butterflies and other pollinators. Native plants are adapted to local climate, soil and are resistant to disease.

Increase of human population and development has put many ecosystems at risk. As gardeners and stewards, people can take environmental action into their own hands by creating habitat with shade providing or drought tolerant plants. There is a wide variety of flowering and fruiting shrubs and trees available that are showy in bloom, uniqueness, oddity, medicinal qualities and simplicity.

Red-Osier Dogwood (Cornus stolonifera)
Red-Osier Dogwood is a deciduous, fast growing, hardy shrub with showy red twigs and white flowers. It can grow from 3 to 20 feet tall and wide. The plant forms dense thickets by sending out long thin stems that grow horizontally along the ground, sometimes as far as 10 feet away from the parent plant. White berries attract birds and mammals. With its dense appearance, tolerance and adaptability for dry open and seepage areas, this plant is suited for cover hedge and shoreline planting.

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How to Plant Correctly

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Saskatoon (Amelanchier alnifolia)
Amelanchier alnifolia (Serviceberry) is a 10 to 15 foot tall and wide deciduous native shrub that grows from western Ontario to British Columbia and the Yukon. It thrives in moist, well-drained soils and is tolerant of harsh, dry, or alkaline conditions once established. Serviceberry is one of the earliest fragrant, blooming shrubs in spring and is an essential early-season food source for pollinators such as bees and butterflies. The berries that ripen in June are a favourite of songbirds and mammals. Saskatoon is recommended in landscapes for mass planting, hedges and screening.

Juniper (Juniperus communis)
The common juniper, is a species of small tree or shrub in the cypress family Cupressaceae. A sun loving evergreen conifer, growing to 2 to 3 feet tall and 1 to 2 feet wide. This plant tolerates a wide range of soils and is drought tolerant once established. Juniper berries are a favourite of coyotes, jackrabbits, and many other birds. Perfect as a specimen plant, for foundation plantings, rock gardens or containers.

Kinninnick (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi)
Kinninnick, also known as common bearberry is an extremely winter hardy, creeping, slow-growing, prostrate, woody evergreen shrub. It typically grows to 6 to12 inches tall but spreads over time by flexible branching from 3 to 6 feet wide or more. It can be effectively used as a ground cover and is ideal for sunny locations with soils that are nutrient-poor, acidic, rocky or sandy and have limited water input. The plant is extremely tolerant of the elements and can be used to replace lawns in these tough areas. It also cascades nicely over ornamental rocks and borders.

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Weed Barriers – Costly & Ineffective

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Oregon Grape (Mahonia aquifolium)
This broadleaf shade and drought tolerant evergreen shrub is typically found in shrub lands, rocky woods and coniferous forests in the Pacific Northwest. It has an upright to spreading habit and grows slowly, up to 3-6 feet tall and wide. Spiny foliage emerges with bronze-red colouring, turns green as it matures, and develops a purple-red colouring in the winter. Brilliant yellow flowers in spring are followed by deep blue berries in fall. Oregon Grape spreads by suckers to form colonies which makes it ideal for mass planting as a screen or as a single colourful accent.

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Mulching is excellent for soil improvement. It suppresses weeds and enhances soil structure and fertility. Mulch mimics the natural environment found in forests where leaves and branches blanket the soil surface, replenishing nutrients as they decompose and creating an ideal environment for root growth.

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Mulching helps with the conservation of moisture by increasing water infiltration and slowing of evaporation. Mulch also acts as a barrier that blocks sunlight for weeds to germinate and grow.

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How to Plant Correctly

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Types of Mulches – There are two types of mulches, organic and inorganic. Organic mulches include wood chips, hardwood and softwood bark, pine needles, straw, grass clippings, seed hulls, etc. Inorganic mulches include gravel and rock. The various organic mulches decompose at different rates and require periodic reapplication. Inorganic mulches, such as gravel, stone chips, river rock, and rubber, do not provide the same benefits as organic mulches as they do not decompose.

The Negative Impacts of Black Plastic and Landscape Fabric – A common practice is to apply mulch over black plastic (polyethylene) and woven plastic weed barrier fabrics (polypropylene). Black plastic is impermeable therefore no oxygen exchange can occur to the soil. Lack of oxygen to the roots and soil microbes significantly reduces plant growth. Black plastic also prevents water penetration.

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Weed Barriers – Costly & Ineffective

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Woven weed barrier fabrics initially allow some minor oxygen and water exchange to the soil, but eventually become clogged and create the same issues as plastic. Weeds easily germinate on top of the fabric and root into or through it. Both plastic and woven plastic fabrics disrupt the life cycles of many pollinators and other soil invertebrates. Fabrics and plastic can be good choices for large-scale vegetable production where regular maintenance and replacement is easily performed.

The selection of a mulch depends on its intended use. If the main objective is soil improvement, organic mulch that gradually breaks down is a good choice. If the area is used primarily for annual flowers, it often is more practical to use a temporary organic mulch such as composted leaves or grass clippings that can be turned under each fall. Wood chips and inorganic mulches like pea gravel are a good choice for landscape plants such as trees, shrubs, or perennials.

Pea Gravel Instead of Crush or Rocks – Rocky materials used for mulch should be smaller than a half-inch in diameter for the benefits of water conservation and weed suppression. Pea gravel has been shown to improve water infiltration into the soil, especially after heavy down pours. Larger stone sizes do not function well as mulches.

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Zeroscaping Madness

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Most mulches, including wood chips and pea gravel can be applied to a depth of 2 to 4 inches. Mulch that is too deep can weaken plants and prevent water and air from reaching the soil. Bark or wood chip mulches mixed into the soil may starve plants of nitrogen. If this occurs, a nitrogen fertilizer can compensate as needed.

For tree health, all mulch materials must be kept away from the trunk and the root flare which is where the trunk meets the soil. The root flare is at or near the ground line and is identifiable as a marked swelling of the tree’s trunk where roots begin to extend outward. Unless the soil is poorly drained, no more than a 2 to 4 inch layer of organic mulch should be used to prevent harm to the root system. When using finely textured or double-shredded mulch that allow less oxygen through the root zone, no more than 1 to 2 inches of mulch depth is required..

Hi, I am Matt – the owner of Chasing Sprouts website. The blog, resources and plant database segments feature a wealth of information to master all sorts of gardening projects. Feel free to share my articles with your world. Bookmark Chasing Sprouts to stay in the loop!

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Planting flowers, shrubs or trees is quite simple and anyone can do this. As a rule of thumb, a hole 2 or 3 times of the diameter of the plant’s container but not deeper must be dug. In clay soils, the sides of the hole should be roughened up as roots cannot penetrate a ‘glazed’ side caused by a shovel. Proper site selection is important considering the plant’s maximum growth size. 

The plant can be placed carefully into the hole after an initial water application has drained. Then the planting is to be backfilled with halfway mixed native soil, a handful of bone meal and then watered again.

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Mulching cannot be overstated. Mulch keeps roots cooler during summer and insulates them during winter. It reduces the loss of moisture during the heat of the day and it will eventually break down providing the plant with beneficial nutrients.

DO NOT, however, mulch around the trunk of plants. This can cause rotting and diseases. It is best to mulch the entire planting area starting 3-4 inches away from the trunk. The use of transplanting product 5-15-5 after planting helps minimize post-planting stress.

When planting balled and bur lapped plants, be sure to remove all twine / wire and peel back the first 1/3 of burlap from the top. The rest can be left on as it will decompose. Lastly, deep watering is far more beneficial and efficient as opposed to a quick spray on the surface.

Hi, I am Matt – the owner of Chasing Sprouts website. The blog, resources and plant database segments feature a wealth of information to master all sorts of gardening projects. Feel free to share my articles with your world. Bookmark Chasing Sprouts to stay in the loop!

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