Putting Your Garden To Bed For Winter


Putting Your Garden To Bed For Winter – The days are getting shorter and the air crisper. When the summer crops are done, people plant garlic, pick apples, hunt for pumpkins and put bulbs into the ground for next year’s flower beds. But don’t put away your gardening gloves just yet. There’s still work to be done.

There are several steps to get your garden ready for the winter. Planting species that need to be in the ground in fall, cleaning up debris, cutting back certain plants, protecting plants from winter weather, and prepping for the spring. A general garden cleanup in the fall reduces workload in the spring when your garden awakens.

Plant Flowering Bulbs & Garlic
There is still planting to do before the ground freezes. Get flowering bulbs and garlic in the ground, they will start growing in early spring. The plants that are still looking good can be potted up and brought indoors. Many herbs, make great houseplants as they can be replanted in the garden after the cold weather has passed.


How to Plant Correctly


Harvest Remaining Summer Crops
Harvest remains of tomatoes and peppers. Still-green tomatoes can ripen on your kitchen counter. Pull out most of the spent plants, cut off the above-ground parts of peas and beans, leaving the roots. Legumes fix nitrogen into the soil and will become fertilizer for next year’s crops.

Plant Cover Crops
In winter, when many plants go dormant above-ground in response to the cold, roots below ground are still alive and benefiting the soil. Cover crops add valuable nutrients such as nitrogen to the soil and prevent soil erosion by wind, rain and snow. Most cover crops grow throughout the winter and then accelerate their growth in the spring. Before the crop goes to seed, till it into the soil as a “green manure”, or simply tarp up the patch and let it cook by the sun.


Mulching for Soil Improvement


Cut Back Plants
Most perennials, such as irises, begonias, clematis, and day lilies can be cut back in the fall when frost has caused the plants to die back. Do some research on which of your species should be pruned in fall and which should be pruned in spring. Start with plants that are diseased or have a pest problem, and dispose of that debris rather than composting it.

Divide Perennials
Many perennial plants can be divided in the fall when their centers become crowded, and they don’t bloom well. Use a spade to dig up the entire clump you want to divide. Slice downwards all the way around the edge, lever the plant up and out. Use the spade to slice portions out of it and then replant the divisions.

Protect Plants
Many plants benefit from some form of winter protection. Protect tender plants either by covering them or moving them to a sheltered area where they won’t receive strong winds. Also, ease up on fertilizing in the fall to not encourage tender new growth that can be damaged by temperature drops. Plants that animals might eat can be protected by fencing. Rake leaves into garden beds or use mulch to cover soil and plants for extra protection. Wrap particularly tender plants with burlap, or wood chips. Move container plants indoors or to sheltered areas.


Native Shrubs For Okanagan Gardens


Prepare for Spring
Prepare your planting beds by adding compost in the late fall to add nutrients and to protect the soil from compacting. The freezing and thawing over winter will work it into the soil. Tilling the soil helps to disturb the dormancy of insects and exposes them to hungry birds. Fall is also a good time to test your soil’s pH. Any necessary amendments can be slow-acting, so adding them in the fall will make the soil ready for the spring.

Clean Up
Fall is also the time to clean up unwanted plants, overgrown areas, lingering piles of brush and other yard waste. Anything left in place over winter can invite unwanted pests or diseases. Bring anything that doesn’t need to be out in the elements into a clean, dry place, such as a shed or garage, to keep it clean and help it last longer. Hose down tools, empty pots, garden stakes, and other items, and disinfect them if necessary. Also, sharpen tools before storage, and give them a protective finish with a light coat of lubricating oil spray.

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Thank You!


North Okanagan plant shoppers may have noticed, some of their favourite garden centres are run down and about to disappear. Owners blame it on whatever, customers are saddened and employees are out of a job they loved.

Working with plants and people – for me, remains to be the greatest job ever. Plants are simple, calming and positive for the environment. The best part of my work in the garden centre were the customers. Gardeners and plant lovers of all levels of experience – You.

Whether it was about finding information, identifying problems and solutions, or selecting the right plants for landscape projects – it was a sheer pleasure serving you. Thank you for your time, loyalty and for sharing your gardening projects and your knowledge with me. I feel privileged to have met all of you.

Good advice continues to be available to anyone who needs help. I am a Plant Life Consultant offering private on-site gardening lessons, plant life inspections, structural fruit tree pruning, FireSmart plant recommendations and drone yard imagery. My services are available in Vernon, Coldstream, Lumby, Armstrong, Enderby & Salmon Arm. You can contact me by email at ChasingSprouts@protonmail.com or by texting to 250-three-zero-nine-9036. 

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North Okanagan Yarrow Landscapes Company


Finding the perfect landscaper can be a challenge in the Okanagan as many new developments keep local professionals busy most of the season. Once an opening with a company becomes available, a conversation and a free estimate often provides a first impression. Hopefully, the company is trustworthy to turn an outdoor vision to life in a realistic manner.

Whether it’s a complete backyard makeover or just sprucing up the front lawn, the right professional can make all the difference. But with so many options out there, how does one know who’s the right fit?  

Look no further – Yarrow Landscapes Company, serving Vernon, Armstrong, Coldstream and surrounding areas is at your service. The company was founded and is run by a Red Seal horticulturalist at heart. Travis Nagy of Vernon BC makes it his mission to create beautiful water-wise xeriscape landscapes featuring native and climate appropriate plants. His work is guided by genuine principles and a deep respect for nature. 

With more than 20 years of experience and a background in environmental technology, geographic information systems and cultural ecosystem services, Travis Nagy helps everyone who starts from scratch or who wishes to revitalize an established garden. Anyone who needs help or seeks thoughtful, ongoing care for their outdoor space should contact Yarrow Landscapes.

Yarrow Landscapes
Web: Yarrowlandscapes.ca

Email: info@yarowlandscapes.com
Phone: 250-307-4963

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The Effects of Wildfire Smoke on Plants


Smoke whether from wildfires, bonfires, or even prolonged cigarette use, can definitely harm outdoor and indoor plants by impacting their growth, health, and survival. Several gases commonly found in smoke have detrimental effects on plants.

Sulfur Dioxide (SO2) is a gas that is often produced by burning fossil fuels or organic matter, is highly damaging. Plants absorb SO2 through their small pores on their leaves where it can disrupt chlorophyll and enzyme production. Nitrogen Oxides (NOx) is similar to SO2 gases and can also damage plant tissues and impair photosynthesis. Nitrogen oxides contribute to the formation of acid rain, which acidifies the soil and harms plant roots.

Carbon Monoxide (CO) is consumed by plants for photosynthesis, high concentrations can be toxic when they interfere with cellular respiration and nutrient uptake. Ozone (O3) at ground level is formed by chemical reactions involving pollutants in sunlight that harms plants. It degrades chlorophyll, reduces photosynthesis processes. Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) in smoke act as phytotoxins that are directly poisonous to plants. They disrupt cell membranes and interfere with plant hormone production.

Beyond gases, wildfire smoke carries tiny solid particles like soot and ash, also known as particulate matter. When these particles physically coat plant surfaces, they create barriers that hinder vital functions. Photosynthesis is significantly reduced when coated plants aren’t able to absorb sunlight effectively. Larger ash particles and embers can cause physical abrasion and damage delicate leaf surfaces.

Raju Soolanayakanahally, a researcher with Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada in Saskatoon, said smoke dries out the atmosphere, making plants think they’re experiencing drought. As a result, they close their stomata which are tiny pores on the surface of their leaves that keep water stored, instead of releasing it into the atmosphere. Soolanayakanahally said that can impact plant growth. “Even a simple 30-minute exposure to smoke can reduce photosynthesis by almost 50 per cent,” he said.

When the impacts of wildfire smoke deposits hamper the photosynthesis processes of plants, they develop signs of blocked growth, weakened structure, reduced flowering and fruiting. This makes them more susceptible to other environmental stresses, diseases or pest infestations. Visible signs of smoke damage are leaves that turn brown or black as the cells die due to chemical injury. Bleached or discoloured spots can appear and in severe cases, plants may shed their leaves prematurely.

While much of the direct impacts of wildfire smoke deposits are on the leaves and stems of plants, smoke can also indirectly affect the soil and roots. Sulphur dioxide lowers the soil’s pH, making essential nutrients less available to plants and potentially releasing toxic metals. This is a concern for long-term exposure. Heavy ash deposition can alter soil structure, potentially leading to poor drainage or aeration, which can affect root health.

If plants are covered with smoke and ash, both sides of their leaves should be cleaned with water. As for garden produce, simple washing with water before consumption should remove any of the residues. In conclusion, the good news is if plants are thoroughly washed down with water after wildfire smoke is gone, they will most likely suffer little or no harm. The bad news is that the wildfire smoke is still hazardous to humans.

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Bargain Hunters – A Breed of Their Own


Many gardeners and plant lovers shop for their favourite greens as early as possible. A typical garden centre season starts around April, with some places opening even as early as late March. Planting early provides plants with up to 3 months of growing time and moderate weather before the heat of the summers sets in. It’s safe to say that no true gardener would ever consider planting later than that.

July and August are quiet months in most Okanagan garden centres. Staff care for plants that struggle either from earlier frost events, overwatering from sprinkler systems or from the stress of the heat.  Odd summer shoppers cruise around looking for early deals only to learn that their timing is somewhat off.

Bargain hunters by comparison are a complete different breed of shoppers. Especially when they show up at a liquidation sale. They rush in expecting to get crazy deals only to discover the store owner is in it to make a buck until the bitter end. And there they are: stunned, confused, lost and seemingly bedazzled looking at nothing but – Plants!

Anything that is left on plants late into a season, never mind the odd possibility of a flowering specimen – is being ignored by zombie-like beings who ghost around the premise, looking for exactly what? They must find something – something at all cost. Something, a souvenir of some sort regardless if it pertains to plants or not. Just let there be something they can claim as their prize for all the hunting, one last time.

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Hi, I am Matt – the owner of Chasing Sprouts website. The blog, resources and plant database segments feature a wealth of information to master all sorts of gardening projects. Feel free to share my articles with your world. Bookmark Chasing Sprouts to stay in the loop!

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Okanagan & Shuswap’s Most Beautiful Garden Centres


The Okanagan & Shuswap’s Most Beautiful Garden Centres stand easily out in a crowd. It may come as a surprise to some that the here chosen garden centres are the lesser known. That is because of the supreme quality of the products they carry throughout their season. In Kelowna, the most beautiful garden centre is The Greenery, located on  Longhill Road between the University and Dillworth Mountain.  

The Greenery is a  true Okanagan family business, consisting of three generations since 1972. The Greenery grows homegrown plants and has the biggest selection of varieties in the Okanagan with 43,000+ square feet of greenhouses. They are open to the public between January and the end of May. The Greenery.


In Vernon, the most beautiful garden centre is The Flower Spot. Located on OK Landing Road, the business is a seasonal family owned and operated garden centre. 

Growing green things for over 40 years, the Flower Spot Garden Centre has a wide selection of flowering perennials, annuals, and vegetable plants. The Flower Spot.


The most beautiful garden centre in Armstrong is Blue Mountain Nursery. Located on Pleasant Valley Road, the company prides itself with greenhouses stocked with bedding plants, perennials, trees and shrubs. 

Unlike many other garden centres, this nursery cares about the environment and stocks also chemical-free fertilizers and pesticides. Blue Mountain Nursery.


The most beautiful garden centre in the Shuswap, in Salmon Arm and in Blind Bay is Nico’s Nurseryland. Nico’s Nurseryland is truly a family business. With roots going back to the 1950’s, the family moved from the Lower Mainland to Salmon Arm where they opened their garden centre in 1998. In 2003, Nico’s expanded into the Blind Bay area.

Nico’s makes custom flower baskets and planters and they are one of the very few garden centres that deliver plants to their customers anywhere from their Salmon Arm location.  Nico’s Nurseryland.

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Hi, I am Matt – the owner of Chasing Sprouts website. The blog, resources and plant database segments feature a wealth of information to master all sorts of gardening projects. Feel free to share my articles with your world. Bookmark Chasing Sprouts to stay in the loop!

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NEED HELP
WITH YOUR PLANTING PROJECT ?
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Legal Responsibilities For Fruit Tree Growers


Orchard growers and urban owners of apple, pear, crabapple, or quince host trees are required by law to keep their property free of codling moth infestations. A codling moth is a small, grayish moth which has been a principal pest of apple and pear in North America for more than 200 years. While it largely attacks apples, pears and quince fruits, it has also been problematic with cherries and walnuts.

The Okanagan-Kootenay Sterile Insect Release Program (SIR) is an environmentally responsible, area-wide approach to control codling moth pest populations, one of the BC tree fruit industry’s most damaging and costly pests. The program operates in the fruit-growing regions of the Okanagan, Similkameen, and Shuswap Valleys, where the tree fruit industry plays an important role in the lives of residents and commercial growers.

Codling Moth Prevention – Growers Legal Responsibility
Orchard growers and urban owners of apple, pear, crabapple, or quince host trees are required by law to keep their property free of codling moth infestations. Legislation authorizes SIR staff to ensure compliance with these laws and, as necessary, allows for orders to remove infested materials or neglected host trees.

Codling Moth Pest Management
Managing fruit trees for codling moth requires multiple applications of pesticides and/or labour-intensive pest management care. Apple and pear tree owners should carefully consider the costs and benefits of growing backyard trees.

For More Information
Visit OKSIR
https://www.oksir.org/

The Stone Fruit Alternative
An alternative for home owners who wish to avoid the codling moth pest is to plant stone fruits, such as plum, peach or apricot trees instead of apple or pear trees. These trees in general have fewer fruit damaging pests. To protect stone fruit plants from all other seasonal pests, dormant oil sprays must be applied once in fall after leaves dropped and in early spring before bud development. 

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Pruning Young Fruit Trees


A back yard orchard can provide year-round harvests of delicious tree-ripened fruit. Pruning is important to maintain plant health and assure longevity. Different pruning styles are often applied to different fruit trees. Single-leader, modified-leader and open-crown or center pruning styles are often used. This article describes the open-crown style which is an easy pruning method that can be used on just about any fruit tree.

Pruning Tools – Pruning tools, such as bypass pruners must be sharp to deliver proper cuts. To prevent the spread of possible disease, pruning tools must be sanitized with isopropyl alcohol between every single plant.

Scaffold Branches – Newly planted fruit tree specimen which may already be several feet tall should be pruned from about knee-height. In general, cuts must be made just above outward buds so that developing branches grow outward from the centre of the tree. Ideal are four 16 inch long (scaffold) branches that point at all four directions. They should be about in a 45 to 60 degree angle from the trunk which makes them flexible enough to carry heavy crops without breaking. Steeper branches can be trained by bracing which forces them to grow in the desired angle. The center leader needs to be cut off at its collar, close to the trunk. And that’s all that needs to be done for the first season.

Winter Pruning – In the following year’s late winter, or just near the end of dormancy, the tree should be inspected for the previous summer’s growth. Long branches should be pruned back about three quarters of their length and again, in order to maintain an open centre – cuts must be made just a bit above outward buds. An important step anytime during pruning is to remove diseased or dead branches.

Sometimes it can be difficult to tell between heathy and dead branches. A simple trick is just to gently scratch the bark to determine if it is green underneath and alive or brown and brittle and dead. The dead part of a branch can then be cut back to where it is still alive at an outward bud so it can heal over. There are two types of cuts being applied here – heading cuts just above outward buds to shorten branches and thinning cuts at the base or collar to remove branches.

It is important to focus on establishing and maintaining the desired shape of a fruit tree. In this example, the aim is for an open-crown or centre, like the shape of a wine glass. This pruning style provides good aeration and open space around branches and the developing fruit which can reduce the possibility of disease development.

Looking at the bottom’s four scaffold branches, all new crossing, crooked or vertical branches or those growing toward the centre should be removed. The lengths of the grown scaffold branches can be cut back by one third to maintain the desired shape of the tree. This can be repeated every late winter or depending on growth rate, in early summer. It is recommended to spray fruit trees to prevent diseases from harming or even killing a tree.

Attention Apple, Pear & Quince Growers !

Orchard growers and urban owners of apple, pear, crabapple, or quince host trees are required by law to keep their property free of codling moth infestations. A codling moth is a small, grayish moth which has been a principal pest of apple and pear in North America for more than 200 years. While it largely attacks apples, pears and quince fruits, it has also been problematic with cherries and walnuts.

The Okanagan-Kootenay Sterile Insect Release Program (SIR) is an environmentally responsible, area-wide approach to control codling moth pest populations, one of the BC tree fruit industry’s most damaging and costly pests. The program operates in the fruit-growing regions of the Okanagan, Similkameen, and Shuswap Valleys, where the tree fruit industry plays an important role in the lives of residents and commercial growers.

Codling Moth Prevention – Growers Legal Responsibility
Orchard growers and urban owners of apple, pear, crabapple, or quince host trees are required by law to keep their property free of codling moth infestations. Legislation authorizes SIR staff to ensure compliance with these laws and, as necessary, allows for orders to remove infested materials or neglected host trees.

Codling Moth Pest Management
Managing fruit trees for codling moth requires multiple applications of pesticides and/or labour-intensive pest management care. Apple and pear tree owners should carefully consider the costs and benefits of growing backyard trees.

For More Information
Visit OKSIR
https://www.oksir.org/

The Stone Fruit Alternative
An alternative for home owners who wish to avoid the codling moth pest is to plant stone fruits, such as plum, peach or apricot trees instead of apple or pear trees. These trees in general have fewer fruit damaging pests. To protect stone fruit plants from all other seasonal pests, dormant oil sprays must be applied once in fall after leaves dropped and in early spring before bud development. 

.

The Inspiring Spring Garden


Spring is a magical time of the year when blue skies and sunshine reawaken humans and nature from long, dark days of winter. As the days grow longer and warmer, the landscape is transformed by a profusion of spring flowers, with spring bulbs popping up everywhere in this colourful spectacle.

The outside world bursts into colour. Nature’s way of reminding us that spring is just around the corner is to make Snowdrops often push through the snow offering the first glimpse of life after winter. Planted in the fall, these resilient, delicate little flowers will gradually spread minimal effort creating a breathtaking display year after year. One of the earliest bloomers, the Snowdrops herald the arrival of spring.

Snowdrops bloom from late winter to early spring. They are hardy in zones 3 to 7. Growing up to 6 inches tall, Snowdrops thrive in clusters, creating a stunning display in woodland gardens and shaded borders. Snowdrops should be planted in fall to allow their bulbs to establish before winter. They prefer well-drained soil and partial to full shade. Once established, Snowdrops spreading over time to form dense carpets of white blooms.

Primroses are perennials that come in various sizes and vibrant colours. They are some of the first plants to flower in the spring garden.The bright, cheerful blooms are a welcome sight in spring. Primroses are easy to grow and reward with bright colours every year.


Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’ – A Stunning South African


Many types of primroses are available in even more varieties. These compact perennials grow between 4 to12 inches tall and thrive in rich, moist, well-drained soil and partial shade. Hardy in zones 3 to 9, Primroses should be watered regularly, especially in dry periods to maintain their lush foliage. 

One of the most iconic spring flowers, Daffodils are favoured for their bright blooms and cheerful appearance. They belong to the genus Narcissus and are part of the Amaryllidaceae family, which also includes the snowdrops. Daffodils are vibrant perennial bulbs that bring bursts of colours of yellow, white, orange, and pink into any spring garden, year after year. These cheerful blooms stand 6 to 24 inches tall, require well-drained soil and thrive in full sun to partial shade. Daffodils should be planted in the fall, at a depth of about 6 inches. Hardy in USDA zones 3–8, Daffodils bloom from early to mid-spring, multiplying over time to create dense clusters of flowers.

Being also some of the first spring flowers to emerge, Crocuses create waves of small purple and yellow flowers throughout garden beds. Crocus flowers grow from bulb-like corms, producing flowers for years on end. They multiply on their own. These low-growing flowers grow to about 4 to 6 inches in height and they require well-drained soil and full sun to partial shade. Crocuses should be planted in the fall at a depth of 3 to 4 inches. Once established, they require minimal care and will create colourful drifts in lawns, rock gardens, and borders. Hardy in zones 3 to 8.

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Among the most iconic spring flowers are Tulips featuring a wide range of colours, shapes, and sizes. Planted about 6 inches deep in the fall, they typically grow between 6 and 24 inches tall and bloom in mid-to-late spring. These perennials planted in form of bulbs the previous fall, thrive in well-drained soil and full sun. Hardy in zones 3 to 8.

Known for their dense spikes of star-shaped flowers, Hyacinths are often planted in mass displays for their striking colour and fragrance. Blooming in early to mid-spring, they come in shades of pink, purple, white, blue, and yellow. Planted in the fall, about 6 inches deep, Hyacinths grow up to 8 to 12 inches tall. They prefer well-drained soil and full sun to partial shade. Hyacinths are hardy in zones 4 to 8.

Hi, I am Matt – the owner of Chasing Sprouts website. The blog, resources and plant database segments feature a wealth of information to master all sorts of gardening projects. Feel free to share my articles with your world. Bookmark Chasing Sprouts to stay in the loop!

❀❀❀

NEED HELP
WITH YOUR PLANTING PROJECT ?
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