Butterfly Bush – A Devastating Beauty


Butterfly Bush (Buddleia davidii)
A hard to miss, common sight in our region’s gardens and landscape plantings, the Butterfly Bush with its fragrant conical blooms is fluttering butterflies and buzzing bees. Originally from central China, the Butterfly Bush grows easily in the Okanagan and Shuswap climates.

However eye-catching, hardy, and extremely attractive to butterflies and other pollinators, Butterfly Bush is far from beneficial; in fact it impairs the health of our local ecosystems. Butterfly Bush is a deciduous shrub that can grow up to 15 feet high. The opposite-growing leaves, 5-10 inches long, have jagged edges. Butterfly Bush blooms from mid-summer to early fall.

The flowers of the Butterfly Bush form drooping or upright spikes at the end of branches. The wild-origin species is white-flowered with orange or yellow centers. Varieties bred for the garden are typically purple; or they may have pink, blue, magenta, yellow or maroon blooms.

The Butterfly Bush is extremely successful at reproduction as a single flower head can produce over 40,000 seeds giving it a competitive advantage over native flowering shrubs. 

The extremely lightweight, winged seeds travel far distances by way of water or wind and can remain viable for three to five years in soil. Any cut stems can also sprout again. Butterfly Bush benefits pollinators but only at one stage of their life cycle. The problem with the Butterfly Bush is that it doesn’t offer any viable food source for freshly hatched eggs (caterpillars) of the butterfly. The butterfly reproduction cycle ends at this plant as it has been observed that newly hatched caterpillars don’t feed on the leaves and therefore starve. 

In addition, the Butterfly Bush also tends to spread enormously shading out other plants that support the life cycles of butterflies. It establishes in sunny, well-drained sites including fields, roadsides, woods edges, and riverbanks, where native shrubs would have grown. Those vanished native shrubs were also essential food sources for caterpillars. Without caterpillars, there will be no adult butterflies. Without caterpillars, birds will not survive. 

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Cedar Hedge Alternatives

Cedar Hedge Alternatives For Okanagan & Shuswap Gardens


Cedar hedges are grown just about anywhere in the world as they feature a number of positive attributes. They are easy to grow, create an almost instant privacy hedge and they are easy to maintain on a drip water system once established. The claim they need a lot of water is a myth. Cedars need just about as much or as little water as many other tall shrub plants intended for hedging.

There are however a number of undesirable negatives attributed to this and other coniferous hedging plants. Most evergreen conifers including deciduous evergreens are laden with oils and resins which make them extremely flammable. With today’s FireSmart practices in mind, coniferous plants in general should all be avoided in gardens and modern landscapes.

The BC FireSmart plant program features a guide about lower risk plants for hedges, privacy and screening that contains a lot of plants for a lot of places. Many suggested plants species are not everywhere available, or they aren’t heat tolerant or cold hardy enough to survive Okanagan winter cold snaps. Following are a few lesser known, tough plants worth considering as alternatives as they are also fire, deer and drought-resistant.

Mock Orange (Philadelphus coronarius) – A super fragrant deciduous ornamental hedging shrub with beautiful white flowers makes for an ideal summer privacy screen in backyards. A upright growth with stiff and woody branches featuring dark-green and oval leaves that can grow from 3 to 12 feet tall and wide, depending on the variety. Mock Orange requires full sun, well drained soil.

Forsythia, (genus Forsythia) – The brilliant yellow blooms early in the spring belong to the Forsythia, a member of the olive family. A cheerful backdrop commonly known for its long branches and an excellent privacy screen or center piece in urban settings. With proper watering, the Forsythia is a fast growing shrub that can reach up to 10 feet in height and width.

Lilac (Syringa vulgaris) – Another local native is the Lilac shrub which is extremely easy to care for and can be pruned so that their dense leaves create a hedge with pink, purple, or white fragrant blooms in late spring and early summer. The size of Lilac ranges from 4 to 20 feet in height and width. Grown in full sun, Lilac requires fertile, well drained soil. It is hardy and can grow almost anywhere.

Saskatoon (Amelanchier alnifolia) – The Saskatoon is a deciduous native shrub that grows from western Ontario to British Columbia and the Yukon. It can grow up to 30 feet tall, although typically its height ranges at 3 to 18 feet. Before it leaves out in the spring, clusters of small fragrant white flowers emerge which bloom for about a month. Saskatoon berries Edible to both humans and animals, the plant produces small, sweet berries, that ripen in early summer. The twigs and leaves of the Sakatoon if eaten in large quantities by animals such as cattle, goats, and sheep, can be a fatal poison.

Ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius) – An attractive plant, the Ninebark is native to the eastern and central regions of North America. It is an upright arching shrub that grows up to about 10 feet and wide, depending on variety. They are well loved for their showy floral display of small white or pink blooms that appear in the late spring and early summer. Ninebark can grow in a variety of soil conditions and the plant is drought resistant once established.

Red Twigged Dogwood (Cornus servicea)Red twig dogwoods are deciduous shrubs with variegated leaves in a deep green-gray colour with a white edge, making them especially pleasant on the eye. Their white flowers emerge during the springtime or in early summer, and are followed by equally charming white berries with blue undertones The characteristic red coloured bark makes these shrubs a wonderful focal point in any garden. Sizes vary according to the variety. Dwarf forms can reach just 2 feet tall and wide, while the largest varieties can be up to 15 feet tall and wide.

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Cedar Hedge Alternatives

Cedar Hedge Alternatives


Cedar hedges are grown just about anywhere in the world as they feature a number of positive attributes. They are easy to grow, create an almost instant privacy hedge and they are easy to maintain on a drip water system once established. The claim they need a lot of water is a myth. Cedars need just about as much or as little water as many other tall shrub plants intended for hedging.

There are however a number of undesirable negatives attributed to this and other coniferous hedging plants. Most evergreen conifers including deciduous evergreens are laden with oils and resins which make them extremely flammable. With today’s FireSmart practices in mind, coniferous plants in general should all be avoided in gardens and modern landscapes.

The BC FireSmart plant program features a guide about lower risk plants for hedges, privacy and screening that contains a lot of plants for a lot of places. Many suggested plants species are not everywhere available, or they aren’t heat tolerant or cold hardy enough to survive Okanagan winter cold snaps. Following are a few lesser known, tough plants worth considering as alternatives as they are also fire, deer and drought-resistant.

Mock Orange (Philadelphus coronarius) – A super fragrant deciduous ornamental hedging shrub with beautiful white flowers makes for an ideal summer privacy screen in backyards. A upright growth with stiff and woody branches featuring dark-green and oval leaves that can grow from 3 to 12 feet tall and wide, depending on the variety. Mock Orange requires full sun, well drained soil.

Forsythia, (genus Forsythia) – The brilliant yellow blooms early in the spring belong to the Forsythia, a member of the olive family. A cheerful backdrop commonly known for its long branches and an excellent privacy screen or center piece in urban settings. With proper watering, the Forsythia is a fast growing shrub that can reach up to 10 feet in height and width.

Lilac (Syringa vulgaris) – Another local native is the Lilac shrub which is extremely easy to care for and can be pruned so that their dense leaves create a hedge with pink, purple, or white fragrant blooms in late spring and early summer. The size of Lilac ranges from 4 to 20 feet in height and width. Grown in full sun, Lilac requires fertile, well drained soil. It is hardy and can grow almost anywhere.

Saskatoon (Amelanchier alnifolia) – The Saskatoon is a deciduous native shrub that grows from western Ontario to British Columbia and the Yukon. It can grow up to 30 feet tall, although typically its height ranges at 3 to 18 feet. Before it leaves out in the spring, clusters of small fragrant white flowers emerge which bloom for about a month. Saskatoon berries Edible to both humans and animals, the plant produces small, sweet berries, that ripen in early summer. The twigs and leaves of the Sakatoon if eaten in large quantities by animals such as cattle, goats, and sheep, can be a fatal poison.

Ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius) – An attractive plant, the Ninebark is native to the eastern and central regions of North America. It is an upright arching shrub that grows up to about 10 feet and wide, depending on variety. They are well loved for their showy floral display of small white or pink blooms that appear in the late spring and early summer. Ninebark can grow in a variety of soil conditions and the plant is drought resistant once established.

Red Twigged Dogwood (Cornus servicea)Red twig dogwoods are deciduous shrubs with variegated leaves in a deep green-gray colour with a white edge, making them especially pleasant on the eye. Their white flowers emerge during the springtime or in early summer, and are followed by equally charming white berries with blue undertones The characteristic red coloured bark makes these shrubs a wonderful focal point in any garden. Sizes vary according to the variety. Dwarf forms can reach just 2 feet tall and wide, while the largest varieties can be up to 15 feet tall and wide.

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Leaf Scorch

Okanagan Shuswap Gardens – Leaf Scorch


The browning of plant tissues, including leaf margins and tips is a condition known as leaf scorch, a common condition caused by various factors. In hot and arid regions, this is mainly caused by excessive heat during droughts. Other possible causes which also lead to leaf scorch are improper plant care, soil compaction, transplant shock, nutrient deficiency or over-fertilization. Exposure to bacterium carrying insects, herbicides or salt toxicity may also lead to symptoms of leaf scorch. 

Leaf SCorch

Leaf Scorch Caused by Environmental Conditions
Leaf scorch caused by weather conditions can affect almost any plant. High temperatures, dry winds, and low soil moisture are favourable. When water evaporates from leaf surfaces, plant roots are unable to compensate for the transpiration loss. Leaf tissue then dies as a direct result. Young trees that are stressed by insect infestations, diseases, or other factors are more susceptible than those growing vigorously and in good condition.

Leaf Scorch

Japanese maples, Norway and sugar maples, beech, ash, oak, linden, birch, alpine currant, horse chestnut, white pine, rhododendron, viburnum, and flowering dogwood tree and shrub plants are particularly prone to leaf scorch. Understanding and meeting the specific needs of plants and maintaining proper soil conditions, including proper watering practices, are all vital for preventing leaf scorch effectively.

Leaf Scorch Caused by Bacteria
Bacterial leaf scorch is a chronic, eventually fatal disease that has devastated many shade trees in landscapes and street plantings. Bacterial leaf scorch (BLS) is a systemic disease caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa, which invades the water and nutrient-conducting tissues of trees. 


Bacterial Leaf Scorch of Shade Trees


Bacterial leaf scorch is most common with pin, red, shingle, bur, and white oaks, but can also affect elm, sycamore, mulberry, sweetgum, sugar maple, and red maple. Tissue-feeding leafhoppers and spittlebugs spread the bacterium from tree to tree. Bacterial leaf scorch can easily be mistaken with symptoms of drought and heat stress and the only way to confirm its presence is through laboratory analysis.

The best time to test for the presence of this disease is in late summer or early fall when the bacteria count is at its highest. Transmission between trees through root grafts has also been reported. 

Infected leafhoppers and spittlebugs feed on the succulent, terminal shoots of susceptible host trees, transmitting the bacteria. Water transporting tissue vessels become clogged with bacteria as they travel within, multiplying and infecting other parts of the tree. There are no viable control options for the insects.

The cold-sensitive bacteria overwinters in protected areas within the tree, and populations begin to climb again as the next growing season progresses. 

Leaf Scorch Management
Maintaining the vigor of plants by keeping susceptible specimen healthy and thriving can help them resist infection and survive longer once they are infected. Branches that have died due to bacterial leaf scorch should be removed. Infected trees in a severe state of decline should also be removed. Disinfect pruning tools with a 10% bleach solution between pruning cuts.

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Leaf Scorch

Leaf Scorch


The browning of plant tissues, including leaf margins and tips is a condition known as leaf scorch, a common condition caused by various factors. In hot and arid regions, this is mainly caused by excessive heat during droughts. Other possible causes which also lead to leaf scorch are improper plant care, soil compaction, transplant shock, nutrient deficiency or over-fertilization. Exposure to bacterium carrying insects, herbicides or salt toxicity may also lead to symptoms of leaf scorch. 

Leaf SCorch

Leaf Scorch Caused by Environmental Conditions
Leaf scorch caused by weather conditions can affect almost any plant. High temperatures, dry winds, and low soil moisture are favourable. When water evaporates from leaf surfaces, plant roots are unable to compensate for the transpiration loss. Leaf tissue then dies as a direct result. Young trees that are stressed by insect infestations, diseases, or other factors are more susceptible than those growing vigorously and in good condition.

Leaf Scorch

Japanese maples, Norway and sugar maples, beech, ash, oak, linden, birch, alpine currant, horse chestnut, white pine, rhododendron, viburnum, and flowering dogwood tree and shrub plants are particularly prone to leaf scorch. Understanding and meeting the specific needs of plants and maintaining proper soil conditions, including proper watering practices, are all vital for preventing leaf scorch effectively.

Leaf Scorch Caused by Bacteria
Bacterial leaf scorch is a chronic, eventually fatal disease that has devastated many shade trees in landscapes and street plantings. Bacterial leaf scorch (BLS) is a systemic disease caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa, which invades the water and nutrient-conducting tissues of trees. 


Bacterial Leaf Scorch of Shade Trees


Bacterial leaf scorch is most common with pin, red, shingle, bur, and white oaks, but can also affect elm, sycamore, mulberry, sweetgum, sugar maple, and red maple. Tissue-feeding leafhoppers and spittlebugs spread the bacterium from tree to tree. Bacterial leaf scorch can easily be mistaken with symptoms of drought and heat stress and the only way to confirm its presence is through laboratory analysis.

The best time to test for the presence of this disease is in late summer or early fall when the bacteria count is at its highest. Transmission between trees through root grafts has also been reported. 

Infected leafhoppers and spittlebugs feed on the succulent, terminal shoots of susceptible host trees, transmitting the bacteria. Water transporting tissue vessels become clogged with bacteria as they travel within, multiplying and infecting other parts of the tree. There are no viable control options for the insects.

The cold-sensitive bacteria overwinters in protected areas within the tree, and populations begin to climb again as the next growing season progresses. 

Leaf Scorch Management
Maintaining the vigor of plants by keeping susceptible specimen healthy and thriving can help them resist infection and survive longer once they are infected. Branches that have died due to bacterial leaf scorch should be removed. Infected trees in a severe state of decline should also be removed. Disinfect pruning tools with a 10% bleach solution between pruning cuts.

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laveder

Okanagan Shuswap Gardens – How To Grow Lavender


Grown for its fragrance and flowers which attract many pollinating insects, Lavender is a hardy Mediterranean evergreen shrub popular in the arid landscapes of the Okanagan, Shuswap and beyond. Lavender is appreciated anywhere in local xeriscape gardens, cottage gardens and even in formal gardens. It can be planted beneath shrub roses or used as a low-growing lavender hedge or thrive in containers decorating decks and patios. 

lavender

Lavender – Why & How to Prune
At the time of its purchase, Lavender looks visually appealing. It is fresh, green and compact. The size and appearance however changes over time as does naturally with all plants, except not all plants turn woody and look scraggily. This is where the need for pruning comes into the picture as it is those fresh and green sprouts that will eventually turn woody if let to grow at will. Unlike with most plants, the green shoots of Lavender grow long and over time become woody from the bottom up.

Lavender

The trick to keep Lavender looking nice is to keep pruning its soft shoots before they grow too long. If left to grow wild, Lavender may not be recoverable to its original looks and shape despite pruning efforts. Heavy pruning each season slows down the formation of wood and thus prolongs the lifetime of the plant.  

lavender

Prune After Bloom 
Depending on the regional cold hardiness zone, Lavender can be pruned in early spring or in fall. Fall pruning must be completed at least 6 weeks before the first frost arrives. To make sure Lavender blooms every season as it should, a best rule of thumb is to “prune after bloom”.  Pruning Lavender is quite simple. All shoots should be cut back by about 1/3 to 1/2 or or 2 to 4 inches up where leafy stems meet the woody base Then the whole plant can be given a mounding shape. 

Lavender

As a compact plant, Lavender has an excellent heat resistance and loves a full sun exposure. It is cold hardy for zone 5 (minus 28 Celsius) in Canada. Garden centers carry a wide variety of Lavender plants in different sizes and flower colours such as Munstead, Hidcote, and Blue Cushion.

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laveder

Lavender – Why & How to Prune


Grown for its fragrance and flowers which attract many pollinating insects, Lavender is a hardy Mediterranean evergreen shrub popular in the arid landscapes of the Okanagan, Shuswap and beyond. Lavender is appreciated anywhere in local xeriscape gardens, cottage gardens and even in formal gardens. It can be planted beneath shrub roses or used as a low-growing lavender hedge or thrive in containers decorating decks and patios. 

lavender

Lavender – Why & How to Prune
At the time of its purchase, Lavender looks visually appealing. It is fresh, green and compact. The size and appearance however changes over time as does naturally with all plants, except not all plants turn woody and look scraggily. This is where the need for pruning comes into the picture as it is those fresh and green sprouts that will eventually turn woody if let to grow at will. Unlike with most plants, the green shoots of Lavender grow long and over time become woody from the bottom up.

Lavender

The trick to keep Lavender looking nice is to keep pruning its soft shoots before they grow too long. If left to grow wild, Lavender may not be recoverable to its original looks and shape despite pruning efforts. Heavy pruning each season slows down the formation of wood and thus prolongs the lifetime of the plant.  

lavender

Prune After Bloom 
Depending on the regional cold hardiness zone, Lavender can be pruned in early spring or in fall. Fall pruning must be completed at least 6 weeks before the first frost arrives. To make sure Lavender blooms every season as it should, a best rule of thumb is to “prune after bloom”.  Pruning Lavender is quite simple. All shoots should be cut back by about 1/3 to 1/2 or or 2 to 4 inches up where leafy stems meet the woody base Then the whole plant can be given a mounding shape. 

Lavender

As a compact plant, Lavender has an excellent heat resistance and loves a full sun exposure. It is cold hardy for zone 5 (minus 28 Celsius) in Canada. Garden centers carry a wide variety of Lavender plants in different sizes and flower colours such as Munstead, Hidcote, and Blue Cushion.

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8 Extremely Drought Tolerant & Cold Hardy Shrubs


Black Lace Elderberry (Sambucus nigra ‘Black Lace’)
A stunning addition to any landscape addition is the intense purple black lacy foliage of the Black Lace Elderberry. Its finely cut lace leave make it a perfect resemblance to that of Japanese maples. Because of its extreme tolerance and adaptability to dry climates and droughts, it is an ideal alternative to Japanese maple which require afternoon shade in the hot Interior of British Columbia.

Black Lace Elderberry

Top reasons to grow Black Lace Elderberry are its unique lacy black foliage, pink flowers in early summer and its adaptability to grow in a range of challenging conditions. It needs moderate amounts of water to survive drought conditions. The Black Lace Elderberry requires 6+ hours of full sun to thrive. It grows also well in part shade to full shade for 4 to 6 hours per day. Pruning must be completed after bloom as the new buds develop on old wood.

Black Lace Elderberry

The average ornamental variety can reach a size of 96×108 inches tall and wide when mature. Its habit is upright with large clusters of pink flower and deep purple to black foliage. The Black lace Elderberry is hardy to zones 5 to 9. It grows best in moist soils but can easily tolerate dry and hot environments. To produce berries, a relative plant such as the Black Beauty, Instant Karma, or Laced Up elderberry is required as pollinator. Note: According to the Humane Society of America, elderberry can be toxic to pets if consumed.


Forsythia (Forsythia x)
An early spring bloomer, the bright yellow, cheery blooms of forsythia that appear before the foliage provide a welcome to gardeners anxiously awaiting the start of a new growing season. Commonly available shrub varieties grow between 4 to 7 feet tall and wide. Forsythia is tolerant of a wide range of growing conditions and is reliably hardy in most climates.

Forsythia with its dense foliage provides a lush backdrop to other plants when it is finished blooming. The shrub can be used as feature plant by itself or in a mass plantings, as hedge for privacy, in containers and also as woodland border. Even though this plant is drought tolerant, it requires a site with full sun to light shade and well-draining soil. Forsythia is tolerant of different soils, but performs best in rich, well-draining environments. For containers, high-quality potting mix is important.


American Filbert Hazelnut (Corylus americana)
An excellent thicket-forming native shrub for woodland gardens or as tall hedging in any landscape. Showy male flowers (catkins) add early spring interest and dark green leaves turn into beautiful colours in the fall.

Hazelnut

The nuts mature from September to October, attracting seed-eating birds, such as blue jays and woodpeckers. Hazelnuts are fast growing shrubs that grow 5 to 8 feet tall and wide. They require full sun or 6 hours of direct light daily but can also do well in shady areas. They are cold hardy to minus 28 degrees Celsius / zone 5. Hazelnut plants prefer moist, well-drained to alkaline soils. Good drought tolerance once established.


Lilac (Syringa vulgaris)
Lilac is a very popular ornamental, large deciduous shrub or multi-stemmed small tree. It is attractive for its purple to pink sweet-smelling flowers, which appear in early summer just before many other summer flowers come into bloom. Lilac plants grow fast and they can grow 3 to 20 feet in height and width, depending on variety. Secondary shoots from the base or roots can grow up to 8 inches in diameter. Lilac grows well in full sun and is cold hardy zone 4 to 8. It tolerates chalk, loam, clay and sandy soil conditions that are also moist and well-drained.

Lilac


Mock Orange (Philadelphus)
Mock Orange is an elegant, classic flowering shrub. It’s long been been a garden favourite for its pure white blooms, which are deliciously scented and reminiscent of orange blossom. Depending on variety, Mock Orange can grow from 4 to 10 feet high and wide. The shrubs appear in late spring and summer against a smart backdrop of dark green, often arching foliage. Mock Orange grows best in in full sun or light shade and moist but well-drained soil. Blooms on old wood. Prune after flowering.

Mock Orange


Ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius)
Ninebark plants are spring-flowering shrubs common in many landscape settings. A super drought tolerant and cold hardy shrub that features, depending on variety either green or orange to deep burgundy foliage. Spring flowers emerge as light pink and turn white. Ninebark, an American native that grows 3 to 10 feet tall and wide thrives best in full sun and in clay and loamy soil. Its hardiness zone is 3 to 9 in Canada.


Saskatoon (Amelanchier alnifolia)
Saskatoon, also known as Serviceberry is an Okanagan native shrub that grows 6 to 12 feet tall and wide. It features green foliage and attractive white, fragrant blossoms in spring. Winter hardiness is exceptional (Zone 3) but frost can damage blooms as late as May. The shrub requires full sun exposure to ripen its purple, edible fruit. 

Saskatoon

Indigenous people in Canada have long been eating the sweet, nutty tasting fruits, fresh or dried. Saskatoon berries are well known as an ingredient in pemmican, added as flavour and preservative. They are used in saskatoon berry pie, jam, wines, cider, beers, and sugar-infused berries similar to dried cranberries used for cereals, trail mix, and snack foods. 

Saskatoon

Garden centers often carry tree versions of this cultivar that grow about 20 feet tall and wide at maturity. Saskatoons are adaptable to most soil types with exception of poorly drained or heavy clay soils lacking organic matter. Shallow soils should be avoided, especially if the water table is high or erratic.


Sumac (Rhus typhina)
Sumac is a dioecious, deciduous shrub or small tree growing up to 16 feet tall and 20 feet wide. It has alternate, pinnately compound leaves, with serrate leaflets. Leaf petioles and stems are densely covered in rust-coloured hairs. The velvety texture and the forking pattern of the branches, reminiscent of antlers, have led to the common name “stag’s horn sumac”.

Sumac

Small, greenish-white through yellowish flowers occur in dense terminal panicles, and flowers occur from May through July. Fruit ripens from June through September and is eaten by many birds in winter. Fall foliage is brilliant shades of red, orange and yellow.

Sumac

Staghorn sumac is an ornamental plant which provides interest throughout the year; though its vigorous, suckering habit makes it unsuitable for smaller gardens. It spreads by seeds and rhizomes and is considered invasive by some. It can grow under a wide array of conditions, but is most often found in dry and poor soil on which other plants cannot survive. Staghorn sumac is not closely related to poison sumac.

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Okanagan Shuswap Garden – Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’


An award-winning, most widely grown South African cultivar puts even the most spectacular of red coneflowers into a corner. Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’ features erect pleated leaves and wands of brilliant fiery scarlet red tubular flowers. This perennial easily blooms from mid to late summer, driving hummingbirds literally crazy.

crocosmia lucifer

This stunning plant grows to 4 feet tall and about 2 feet wide with its bladed foliage resembling sword-lilies. It can grow in full sun or part shade and it requires moderately fertile, moist but well-drained soil. Once established in Okanagan or Shuswap gardens, it is extremely drought tolerant but can also handle cold winters.

crocosmia lucifer

Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’ is often spotted in established gardens where it flourishes in flower beds and herbaceous borders complementing other flowering plants. Planting crocosmia is a great way to add tropical colour to any garden in late summer, once the spring bloomers have come and gone.

crocosmia lucifer

Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’ makes for outstanding cut flowers. Clumps should be divided every three years, in spring. In colder regions, the corms can be stored like gladioli, wintered in pots, or mulched heavily outdoors.

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Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’ – A Stunning South African


An award-winning, most widely grown South African cultivar puts even the most spectacular of red coneflowers into a corner. Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’ features erect pleated leaves and wands of brilliant fiery scarlet red tubular flowers. This perennial easily blooms from mid to late summer, driving hummingbirds literally crazy.

crocosmia lucifer

This stunning plant grows to 4 feet tall and about 2 feet wide with its bladed foliage resembling sword-lilies. It can grow in full sun or part shade and it requires moderately fertile, moist but well-drained soil. Once established in Okanagan or Shuswap gardens, it is extremely drought tolerant but can also handle cold winters.

crocosmia lucifer

Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’ is often spotted in established gardens where it flourishes in flower beds and herbaceous borders complementing other flowering plants. Planting crocosmia is a great way to add tropical colour to any garden in late summer, once the spring bloomers have come and gone.

crocosmia lucifer

Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’ makes for outstanding cut flowers. Clumps should be divided every three years, in spring. In colder regions, the corms can be stored like gladioli, wintered in pots, or mulched heavily outdoors.

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