Hydrangea Standard Tree Form Varieties


Hydrangea trees are hydrangea shrub plants that have been grower cultivated into tree-forms, also known as standard hydrangeas. The most common type of cultivated tree-form hydrangea is the Panicle hydrangea with its cone-shaped clusters of white-cream-pink blossoms.

Examples of Hydrangea Trees

Limelight Hydrangea Tree (Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight’)
Quick Fire Hydrangea Tree (Hydrangea paniculata ‘Bulk’)
Berry White Hydrangea Tree (Hydrangea paniculata ‘Renba’)
Vanilla Strawberry Hydrangea Tree (Hydrangea paniculata ‘Renhy’)
Pee Gee Hydrangea Tree (Hydrangea paniculata ‘Grandiflora’)
Pinky Winky Hydrangea Tree (Hydrangea paniculata ‘DVPpinky’)


Zeroscaping Madness


Limelight Hydrangea Tree
The Limelight hydrangea tree is by far the most popular variety available. It has most commonly been grown in its natural shrub form, growing to a mature size of 6-8 feet tall and wide. A newer version, the ‘Limelight Prime’, is a smaller tree that grows to a maximum height and width of 6 to 8 feet.


Pinky Winky Hydrangea Tree
The Pinky Winky hydrangea is another very popular cultivar. Similar size to Limelight, also reaching 6 to 8 feet tall at maturity, the flowers of this hydrangea tree open as a white colour with a blush hint, and then age to a bright pink.


Vanilla Strawberry Hydrangea Tree
The Vanilla Strawberry hydrangea tree is a smaller plant, growing to 4 to 6 feet tall and wide. At first, the flower heads are creamy white but age to an attractive pale pink colour.


Quick Fire Hydrangea Tree
Quick Fire is another popular hydrangea cultivar used for standard-form specimens. Like Limelight and Pinky Winky, this variety grows to 6 to 8 feet tall and wide. It is one of the earliest blooming tree-form hydrangea varieties.


Phantom Hydrangea Tree
The Phantom hydrangea tree, a large variety that can reach 6-10 feet tall and wide features large flower heads, which can reach over a foot long on mature shrubs. The flowers start out white before aging to a pinkish-blush colour.


Pee Gee Hydrangea Tree
The Pee Gee hydrangea tree was once the most popular variety of tree-form hydrangeas. Also known as Grandiflora hydrangea tree, the Pee Gee is a particularly large variety that develops multi-stemmed reaching a size of 10 to 20 feet tall and wide when mature.


Little Lime Hydrangea Tree
The Little Lime hydrangea trees are dwarf forms of the popular ‘Limelight’ cultivar. These beautiful small trees reach to a height and witdth of about 4 to 5 feet. Like the Limelight variety, they have green flowers that age to an antique blush pink.


Weed Barriers – Costly & Ineffective


Bobo Hydrangea Tree
The Bobo hydrangea tree is also a smaller variety of hydrangea tree, measuring about 3 feet tall and wide when at maturity. Due to its small stature, this cultivar is often sold as a container plant perfect for doorway entries, decks and patios.


Fire Light Hydrangea Tree
The Fire Light hydrangea tree is an interesting variety due to its vibrant colours. As the flowers bloom, they change from cream white to a bright pink. The tree itself grows 5 to 6 feet tall when mature.


Strawberry Sundae Hydrangea Tree
The Strawberry Sundae hydrangea tree is another interesting hydrangea in that it changes the colour of the flowers as it blooms. When the flowers open up, they are a creamy white and then age to a deep pinkish-red, making for a breath-taking display in a landscape. This hydrangea tree grows 6 to 7 feet tall and wide.


Little Quick Fire Hydrangea Tree
A compact version of ‘Quick Fire’, the Little Quick Fire hydrangea tree is the perfect choice for small yards or gardens. This hydrangea tree grows only 4 feet tall and wide and its flowers open up white with a pinkish blush before aging to bright pink.


Wim’s Red Hydrangea Tree
A unique hydrangea tree with deep red/purple flowers, the Wim’s Red hydrangea tree’s flowers start out as a creamy white colour, but age to a rich pink and onto a glowing ruby red in the early fall. This hydrangea tree grows 5 to 6 feet tall and wide.


Early Evolution Hydrangea Tree
The Early Evolution hydrangea tree is an early blooming standard tree with white flowers that age to a soft, elegant blush pink. It is a perfect choice for small gardens as grows 4 to 6 feet tall and wide and its showy blooms last all season.


Magical Candle Hydrangea Tree
The Magical Candle hydrangea tree is another unique hydrangea tree and it gets its name from the beautiful candle-like flower panicles. Flowers start up creamy white before aging to a light pink hue. This hydrangea tree grows 4 to 6 feet tall and wide at maturity.

Commonly Asked Questions

What are the longest blooming hydrangea trees?
Pee Gee hydrangea, Fire Light hydrangea, and Magical Candle hydrangea.

What hydrangea tree has the deepest blooms?
Wim’s Red hydrangea, which has dark pink/red flowers that age to a ruby red colour.

What hydrangea trees are best suited for small yards?
Little Lime hydrangea, Bobo hydrangea, Little Quick Fire hydrangea, and Early Evolution hydrangea.

How can to increase the longevity of hydrangea trees?
To make hydrangea trees last longer, they should be planted in well-drained, moist soil. Pruning in the late winter can help promote new growth and flowering. Additionally, applying fertilizer every spring will keep your hydrangea trees healthy and blooming throughout the season.

Hi, I am Matt – the owner of Chasing Sprouts website. The blog, resources and plant database segments feature a wealth of information to master all sorts of gardening projects. Feel free to share my articles with your world. Bookmark Chasing Sprouts to stay in the loop!

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Hydrangeas – Types & ID


Hydrangeas are some of the most popular garden plants in the world. With their huge beautiful blooms, it’s easy to see why. Six types of hydrangeas are common in North America. They are categorized and identified by flower shape, leaf size, colour, growth habit and overall growing size. 

The growing conditions for hydrangeas, whether they need sun or shade, when to prune them and how hardy they are largely depends on the type of the plant. This article shows how to identify hydrangeas and what the 6 most common types are.

One of the most important things to know about hydrangeas is when and how they bloom. The same is important for when to prune them. Old Wood – Blooming on old wood means that the flowers bloom on last year’s stems. New Wood – Blooming on new wood means that the flower buds form on the new stems that have just grown this year. Since they have a lot of new growth to put out first, they take longer to start blooming.

1 | Big Leaf Hydrangea – Hydrangea Macrophylla

Mophead Hydrangeas
Lacecap Hydrangeas
Mountain Hydrangeas

Big leaf hydrangeas are the 4 to 6 foot high and wide plants with large white, blue or pink flowers that are often used as hedges to line driveways and fences, or as foundation plants in the front of a house. They grow best in part shade in moist but well-drained soil, but will tolerate full sun if they are well watered.

Big leaf hydrangeas come in two types of flowers – Mopheads (Big Balls) and Lace Caps (Flat & Lacy). Big leaf hydrangeas have large, dark green, pointed leaves that tend to grow in clusters with two leaves on either side of very little branched stems. Many varieties of Hydrangea macrophylla have flowers that will change colour from blue to pink (and vice versa) depending on your soil pH. Acidic soil will produce blue blooms, while alkaline soil produces pink ones. The mophead variety has clusters of showy florets that form large round balls that can bloom from summer to fall. 

The lace cap variety has flatter, more delicate flower heads. The blooms are made up of buds in the center, surrounded by showy open wide florets that last about one month, usually fading faster than their mophead cousins.

Big Leaf Hydrangea Specs
Zones: 5 to 11 – Light: Part to full shade – Bloom Time: Summer to Fall – Height: 4′ to 6′ – Spread: 4′ to 6′ – Colour: White, pink, blue, purple, red – Blooms on: All varieties with the exception of newer generations bloom on old wood.

Common Varieties: Blushing Bride – mophead with white to pink flowers; Nikko Blue – mophead with bright blue flowers; Endless Summer – mophead with blue flowers in acidic soil or pink flowers in alkaline soil; Twist-n-Shout – the very first re-blooming lace cap with blue flowers in acidic soil or pink flowers in alkaline soil; Cherry Explosion – cherry red lace cap flowers with burgundy fall colour.

Mountain Hydrangeas (Hydrangea Serrata) are very similar to the lace cap varieties of big leaf hydrangeas except for their smaller their leaves. They bloom on old wood and due to their bud hardiness they are less likely to be affected by late frosts. 

The flowers can change colour from pink to blue and vice versa depending on soil acidity. Because of their compact nature, mountain hydrangeas are great for growing in containers.

Mountain Hydrangea Specs
Zones: 5 to 9 – Light: Partial shade – Bloom Time: Summer – Height: 2′ to 4′ – Spread: 2′ to 4′ – Colour: Pink, red, blue –
Blooms on: All varieties with the exception of newer generations bloom on old wood.

Common Varieties: Tuff Stuff – re-blooming mountain Hydrangea with pink or blue flowers; Tuff Stuff Red – deep pink and green flowers or purple and blue flowers.

2 | Panicle Hydrangea – Hydrangea Paniculata

Panicle hydrangeas are some of the easiest and hardiest hydrangeas to grow. Besides their leaves that are smaller than most other types, they feature showy, cone shaped flowers which tend to start out as a white or greenish colour and turn to a shade of pink or red. 

Panicle hydrangeas can grow up to 12 feet high and wide are also available in a standard or tree form. Panicle hydrangeas once established, are very cold hardy and on the opposite also more drought-tolerant than other hydrangea types.

Panicle Hydrangea Specs
Zones: 3 to 8 – Light: Full sun to part shade – Bloom Time: Summer to Fall – Height: 8′ to 12′ – Spread: 8′ to 12′ – Colour: White, green, pink, red – Blooms on: New wood.

Common Varieties: Limelight – starts green and turns to creamy white and a pinkish tone towards the end of summer; Vanilla Strawberry – starts out white and then turns to a bright pink colour; First Editions Berry White – starts white then turns pink and then red. 

3 | Smooth Hydrangea – Hydrangea Arborescens

The smooth hydrangea is is one of the hardiest native species that grows wild across much of Eastern Canada and the United States. Many people refer to it as the Annabelle Hydrangea because it used to be the only garden variety. But due to its popularity, there are a number of other smooth hydrangeas available now that provide more selection in colour and size.

The blooms are similar in shape to the big leaf mopheads but are usually larger, and do not change colour with changes in soil pH. The smooth hydrangea is a loosely and widely branched deciduous shrub that typically grows to 3 to 6 feet high and wide. It can adapt to a variety of soil conditions, but is intolerant of drought.

Smooth Hydrangea Specs
Zones: 3 to 9 – Light: Part shade to sun – Bloom Time: Summer to Fall – Height: 3′ to 5′ – Spread: 3′ to 5′ – Colour: White, pink – Blooms on: New wood.

Common Varieties: Annabelle – the original hydrangea with huge white balls for flowers; Invincibelle Ruby – burgundy red flowers on a compact plant; Incrediball – huge white flowers on sturdy stems; Incrediball Blush – huge pale pink flowers on sturdy stems.

4 | Oakleaf Hydrangea – Hydrangea Quercifolia

Oakleaf Hydrangea is a native species that is found in woodlands throughout the Southeast. The oakleaf hydrangea is noted for producing pyramidal panicles of white flowers in summer on exfoliating branches clad with large, 3 to 7 lobed, oak-like, dark green leaves.

Its white or pink flowers are oblong rather than round balls and they turn to different shades of orange, red and yellow. This upright, broad-rounded, suckering, multi-stemmed, deciduous shrub typically grows 4 to 6 feet high and wide.

Oakleaf Hydrangea Specs
Zones: 5 to 9 – Light: Full sun to part shade – Bloom Time: Summer to Fall – Height: 5′ to 8′ – Spread: 5′ to 8′ – Colour: White, pink – Blooms on: Old wood.

Common Varieties: Gatsby Gal – 5′ shrub with greenish blooms that turn snow white; Ruby Slippers – white blooms that turn pink then red; Alice – native cultivar with foot-long flowers that start white and age to pink.

5 | Climbing Hydrangea – Hydrangea Petiolaris

The climbing hydrangea is a vine with beautiful, lacy white blooms. It is a vigorous, sprawling, deciduous, woody vine that clings and climbs by twining and aerial rootlets along the stems, typically maturing over time to 30 to 40 feet long.

Best grown in rich, fertile, moist but well-drained soils in part shade to full shade. Tolerates full sun only if grown with consistently moist soils. Slow to establish, but quite vigorous thereafter. Propagate by seeds or stem cuttings.

Climbing Hydrangea Specs
Zones: 4 to 9 – Light: Part to full shade – Bloom Time: Spring to Summer – Height: 30′ to 40′ – Spread: 6′ to 8′ – Colour: White – Blooms on: Old wood

Commonly Asked Questions

Which hydrangeas grow in full sun?
Panicle hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata) are amongst the most sun-tolerant hydrangea varieties and can thrive in full sun. They require a minimum of six hours of direct sunlight daily to produce abundant blooms. Smooth hydrangeas (Hydrangea arborescens) can thrive in full sun as well but they need adequate moisture and shade breaks during the midday sun. Oakleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea quercifolia) can grow well in the sun but they need afternoon shade in hotter and dryer climates.

Which hydrangeas grow in the shade?
Climbing Hydrangea (Hydrangea petiolaris), Big Leaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), Oakleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia), Smooth Hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens) and Mountain Hydrangea (Hydrangea serrata) will all grow in the shade, but most will bloom best in partial rather than full shade.

What types of hydrangeas bloom on new wood?
Panicle Hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata) and Smooth Hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens) are the two hydrangeas that bloom entirely on new wood. Some other re-blooming varieties, such as the ‘Endless Summer’ Big Leaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) and the ‘Tuff Stuff’ Mountain Hydrangea (Hydrangea serrata) cultivars bloom on both old and new wood.

What types of hydrangeas bloom on old wood?
Climbing Hydrangea (Hydrangea petiolaris), Oakleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia), Mountain Hydrangea (Hydrangea serrata) and Big Leaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) all bloom on old wood and should not be pruned in the fall or spring to prevent cutting off the buds. To be safe – “prune after bloom”.

Hi, I am Matt – the owner of Chasing Sprouts website. The blog, resources and plant database segments feature a wealth of information to master all sorts of gardening projects. Feel free to share my articles with your world. Bookmark Chasing Sprouts to stay in the loop!

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Weed Barriers – Costly & Ineffective


Home owners and horticulture professionals spend a lot of time and money using weed barriers in ornamental beds only to have weeds take over months or a few years later. One common method is to apply landscape fabric or black plastic around plants and place a layer of mulch on top to dress it up. The barrier on top of the soil is supposed to prevent weeds from emerging by means of blockings sunlight from reaching them. Available weed barriers are expensive and they are labeled as porous to allow air and water to move through them and reach ornamental plant roots.

What Makes Weed Barriers Ineffective ?
In theory, the use of these barriers sounds like a good concept that may work for a while. Over time however, soil and mulch particles fill up the porous spaces in the material and prevent air and water from reaching plant roots. As the fabric becomes clogged, adequate amounts of water and air are unable to reach the plant roots, leading to the plant’s decline.

Black plastic is impermeable therefore no oxygen exchange can occur to the soil. Lack of oxygen to the roots and soil microbes significantly reduces plant growth. Black plastic also prevents water penetration. When plant roots do not receive the needed water and air for healthy growth, they may respond by trying to send roots through fabric seams which breaks down the intended weed barrier. Other plants slowly decline due to water stress or lack of sufficient air movement into the soil.  

Woven weed barrier fabrics initially allow some minor oxygen and water exchange to the soil, but eventually become clogged and create the same issues as plastic. Weeds easily germinate on top of the fabric and root into or through it. Both plastic and woven plastic fabrics disrupt the life cycles of many pollinators and other soil invertebrates.


Mulching For Soil Improvement


Weed seeds also find their way into the mulch that is on top of the fabric from nearby landscapes which may lead to entire weed crops growing in the mulch on top of landscape fabric.

Aesthetically speaking, when the weed fabric is exposed, it looks just awful. Simply put, weed barriers are for those who hate earth worms, don’t plant flower bulbs and who don’t divide geraniums and irises. The best place to consider fabric in the landscape is under mulched paths or other areas without ornamental plantings. In order to have a healthy root environment for ornamental bed plants, it is best to keep weed barriers out of these areas.

Hi, I am Matt – the owner of Chasing Sprouts website. The blog, resources and plant database segments feature a wealth of information to master all sorts of gardening projects. Feel free to share my articles with your world. Bookmark Chasing Sprouts to stay in the loop!

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Zeroscaping Madness


Zeroscaping or hardscaping is largely confused with xeriscaping which itself has nothing to do with replacing entire lots with rocks. The widespread practice of replacing plant cover with rocks to eliminate the need of maintenance, is complete non-sense and does absolutely nothing positive to the ecosystem. If no outdoor maintenance is sought, why choose a house with outdoor space instead of a condo or apartment ? 

The removal of plants in general reduces or eliminates pollination which is an important factor for food production. Bee populations are already on the decline not only by the impacts of herbicide or pesticide applications, but also because of habitat loss. Entire ecosystems are affected when plants are replaced by rock – no more insects, rodents or birds which are all important players in a healthy environment. 

All living space, inside or outside – sooner or later, requires attention. Areas filled with nothing but rock are filled up over time with landed seed pods, moss and other plant debris that gets blown in. 

While zeroscaping is a popular practise here and there, it is becoming increasingly illegal in many other places of the world for its destructive effects on the ecosystem. In addition, many European cities have found that too many people draw on the energy net with the increased use of air conditioners to get relief from the heat that the rockscapes emit everywhere.

Rocks are highly ineffective as a mulch. The purpose for mulch is to retain water, add add nutrients to the soil and to suppress weeds. Rocks conduct heat during daytime and emit heat during nighttime, thus inhibiting any form of natural cooling during seasons already hotter than normal due to climate change. Increased use of air conditioners leads to more air pollution from non-hydro power plants. 


Mulching For Soil Improvement


In little time, rock filled areas are overgrown with weeds that are hard or impossible to remove. During hot seasons, dried weed covered areas can turn into dangerous flammable surfaces which can ignite when ambers from nearby wildfires rain onto them. 

Pea Gravel Instead of Crush or Rocks – Rocky materials used for mulch should be smaller than a half-inch in diameter for the benefits of water conservation and weed suppression. Pea gravel has been shown to improve water infiltration into the soil, especially after heavy down pours. Larger stone sizes do not function well as mulches. Read Mulching For Soil Improvement.

Hi, I am Matt – the owner of Chasing Sprouts website. The blog, resources and plant database segments feature a wealth of information to master all sorts of gardening projects. Feel free to share my articles with your world. Bookmark Chasing Sprouts to stay in the loop!

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Native Shrubs For Okanagan Gardens


Beneficial native plants are vital components of healthy and resilient ecosystems. They increase biodiversity, provide habitat for wildlife, attract birds, butterflies and other pollinators. Native plants are adapted to local climate, soil and are resistant to disease.

Increase of human population and development has put many ecosystems at risk. As gardeners and stewards, people can take environmental action into their own hands by creating habitat with shade providing or drought tolerant plants. There is a wide variety of flowering and fruiting shrubs and trees available that are showy in bloom, uniqueness, oddity, medicinal qualities and simplicity.

Red-Osier Dogwood (Cornus stolonifera)
Red-Osier Dogwood is a deciduous, fast growing, hardy shrub with showy red twigs and white flowers. It can grow from 3 to 20 feet tall and wide. The plant forms dense thickets by sending out long thin stems that grow horizontally along the ground, sometimes as far as 10 feet away from the parent plant. White berries attract birds and mammals. With its dense appearance, tolerance and adaptability for dry open and seepage areas, this plant is suited for cover hedge and shoreline planting.


How to Plant Correctly


Saskatoon (Amelanchier alnifolia)
Amelanchier alnifolia (Serviceberry) is a 10 to 15 foot tall and wide deciduous native shrub that grows from western Ontario to British Columbia and the Yukon. It thrives in moist, well-drained soils and is tolerant of harsh, dry, or alkaline conditions once established. Serviceberry is one of the earliest fragrant, blooming shrubs in spring and is an essential early-season food source for pollinators such as bees and butterflies. The berries that ripen in June are a favourite of songbirds and mammals. Saskatoon is recommended in landscapes for mass planting, hedges and screening.

Juniper (Juniperus communis)
The common juniper, is a species of small tree or shrub in the cypress family Cupressaceae. A sun loving evergreen conifer, growing to 2 to 3 feet tall and 1 to 2 feet wide. This plant tolerates a wide range of soils and is drought tolerant once established. Juniper berries are a favourite of coyotes, jackrabbits, and many other birds. Perfect as a specimen plant, for foundation plantings, rock gardens or containers.

Kinninnick (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi)
Kinninnick, also known as common bearberry is an extremely winter hardy, creeping, slow-growing, prostrate, woody evergreen shrub. It typically grows to 6 to12 inches tall but spreads over time by flexible branching from 3 to 6 feet wide or more. It can be effectively used as a ground cover and is ideal for sunny locations with soils that are nutrient-poor, acidic, rocky or sandy and have limited water input. The plant is extremely tolerant of the elements and can be used to replace lawns in these tough areas. It also cascades nicely over ornamental rocks and borders.


Weed Barriers – Costly & Ineffective


Oregon Grape (Mahonia aquifolium)
This broadleaf shade and drought tolerant evergreen shrub is typically found in shrub lands, rocky woods and coniferous forests in the Pacific Northwest. It has an upright to spreading habit and grows slowly, up to 3-6 feet tall and wide. Spiny foliage emerges with bronze-red colouring, turns green as it matures, and develops a purple-red colouring in the winter. Brilliant yellow flowers in spring are followed by deep blue berries in fall. Oregon Grape spreads by suckers to form colonies which makes it ideal for mass planting as a screen or as a single colourful accent.

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Hi, I am Matt – the owner of Chasing Sprouts website. The blog, resources and plant database segments feature a wealth of information to master all sorts of gardening projects. Feel free to share my articles with your world. Bookmark Chasing Sprouts to stay in the loop!

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Mulching For Soil Improvement


Mulching is excellent for soil improvement. It suppresses weeds and enhances soil structure and fertility. Mulch mimics the natural environment found in forests where leaves and branches blanket the soil surface, replenishing nutrients as they decompose and creating an ideal environment for root growth.

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Mulching helps with the conservation of moisture by increasing water infiltration and slowing of evaporation. Mulch also acts as a barrier that blocks sunlight for weeds to germinate and grow.


How to Plant Correctly


Types of Mulches – There are two types of mulches, organic and inorganic. Organic mulches include wood chips, hardwood and softwood bark, pine needles, straw, grass clippings, seed hulls, etc. Inorganic mulches include gravel and rock. The various organic mulches decompose at different rates and require periodic reapplication. Inorganic mulches, such as gravel, stone chips, river rock, and rubber, do not provide the same benefits as organic mulches as they do not decompose.

The Negative Impacts of Black Plastic and Landscape Fabric – A common practice is to apply mulch over black plastic (polyethylene) and woven plastic weed barrier fabrics (polypropylene). Black plastic is impermeable therefore no oxygen exchange can occur to the soil. Lack of oxygen to the roots and soil microbes significantly reduces plant growth. Black plastic also prevents water penetration.


Weed Barriers – Costly & Ineffective


Woven weed barrier fabrics initially allow some minor oxygen and water exchange to the soil, but eventually become clogged and create the same issues as plastic. Weeds easily germinate on top of the fabric and root into or through it. Both plastic and woven plastic fabrics disrupt the life cycles of many pollinators and other soil invertebrates. Fabrics and plastic can be good choices for large-scale vegetable production where regular maintenance and replacement is easily performed.

The selection of a mulch depends on its intended use. If the main objective is soil improvement, organic mulch that gradually breaks down is a good choice. If the area is used primarily for annual flowers, it often is more practical to use a temporary organic mulch such as composted leaves or grass clippings that can be turned under each fall. Wood chips and inorganic mulches like pea gravel are a good choice for landscape plants such as trees, shrubs, or perennials.

Pea Gravel Instead of Crush or Rocks – Rocky materials used for mulch should be smaller than a half-inch in diameter for the benefits of water conservation and weed suppression. Pea gravel has been shown to improve water infiltration into the soil, especially after heavy down pours. Larger stone sizes do not function well as mulches.


Zeroscaping Madness


Most mulches, including wood chips and pea gravel can be applied to a depth of 2 to 4 inches. Mulch that is too deep can weaken plants and prevent water and air from reaching the soil. Bark or wood chip mulches mixed into the soil may starve plants of nitrogen. If this occurs, a nitrogen fertilizer can compensate as needed.

For tree health, all mulch materials must be kept away from the trunk and the root flare which is where the trunk meets the soil. The root flare is at or near the ground line and is identifiable as a marked swelling of the tree’s trunk where roots begin to extend outward. Unless the soil is poorly drained, no more than a 2 to 4 inch layer of organic mulch should be used to prevent harm to the root system. When using finely textured or double-shredded mulch that allow less oxygen through the root zone, no more than 1 to 2 inches of mulch depth is required..

Hi, I am Matt – the owner of Chasing Sprouts website. The blog, resources and plant database segments feature a wealth of information to master all sorts of gardening projects. Feel free to share my articles with your world. Bookmark Chasing Sprouts to stay in the loop!

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Planting – How To Do It Right


Planting flowers, shrubs or trees is quite simple and anyone can do this. As a rule of thumb, a hole 2 or 3 times of the diameter of the plant’s container but not deeper must be dug. In clay soils, the sides of the hole should be roughened up as roots cannot penetrate a ‘glazed’ side caused by a shovel. Proper site selection is important considering the plant’s maximum growth size. 

The plant can be placed carefully into the hole after an initial water application has drained. Then the planting is to be backfilled with halfway mixed native soil, a handful of bone meal and then watered again.

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Mulching cannot be overstated. Mulch keeps roots cooler during summer and insulates them during winter. It reduces the loss of moisture during the heat of the day and it will eventually break down providing the plant with beneficial nutrients.

DO NOT, however, mulch around the trunk of plants. This can cause rotting and diseases. It is best to mulch the entire planting area starting 3-4 inches away from the trunk. The use of transplanting product 5-15-5 after planting helps minimize post-planting stress.

When planting balled and bur lapped plants, be sure to remove all twine / wire and peel back the first 1/3 of burlap from the top. The rest can be left on as it will decompose. Lastly, deep watering is far more beneficial and efficient as opposed to a quick spray on the surface.

Hi, I am Matt – the owner of Chasing Sprouts website. The blog, resources and plant database segments feature a wealth of information to master all sorts of gardening projects. Feel free to share my articles with your world. Bookmark Chasing Sprouts to stay in the loop!

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